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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default laminating glues

any suggestions on the best glues for laminating different types of wood ?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 01:55 AM
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Hi, Maryann. Welcome.

Most users would recommend yellow woodworking glue (PVA?), if not used outdoors.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 03:52 AM
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welcome , you surely will get many good answers around here!
Would you explain a bit more?
Indoors, or outdoors, type of wood (Some are difficult to glue specially exotic ones).
In most cases, I would use an acrylic outdoor type , fast drying ( 1 to 2 Hours).
Result are good in most cases and not very expensive.

For very strong gluyng, outdoors, boats and so polyurethane based are very strong
but I don't like it , Difficult clean up after gluing, stays somehow flexible.

For extra strong, warterproof, i' d use two component epoxy .
Easy clean excess of fresh glue with denaturate alcool or acetone.
Becomes very Hard, depends of formula.
Open time from 5 minutes to 30 minutes , depends on formula.

For cutting boards toxicity matters, one other problem.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the responses on laminating glues. i realize i was skimpy with my info. most of what i am laminating will be for indoors. but i'd like to know what would work outdoors also. and usually not exotic woods, although i have one project (a lamp base) that included exotics and the glue failed. gorilla glue claims to hold stronger than the wood itself as long as there is a bit of moisture to open the pores of the wood. any experience with that?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 02:52 PM
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Sorry no experience of gorilla' s glue.
That's a trademark, we don't get with this name in France.
Whent there:
Gorilla Glue - Gorilla Glue Family
They obviously have various formulas.

Most of glues ore stronger than most of woods
For using the good glue, you need to tell exactly what sort
of wood you want to glue.And if will be outdoors, indoors, or like for a boat.

I suspect some exotic wood to be plenty of oil that could make gluing difficult
or even a useless hope.

With difficult wood, some says you should make large scraches with a coarse rasp.
And then, with oily woods damp and clean the place for gluing with strong solvents.
Like acetone or thinner for cellulosic paint.
Those thinners are dangerous, most of them burns , explode, or can be very
hazardous for health.
Some of thinners in a close place would expose to danger of death in terms of minutes.
So be carrefull , do it outdoors if you do so.

For small things outdoors i would use epoxy.

Polyester two components not bad it's in use for car body repairs and sails assemblies.

for a large thing like a gate i use polyurethane glue.
It's yellow, it stinks, you got trouble cleaning ,it expands a litle, makes bubbles, and stays soft , awfull , but stands well in the weather.

A few links:
The Truth About Polyurethane Glue | Popular Woodworking Magazine

What is Polyurethane Glue?

The best way might be to make a strong assembly at first, like tenon, mortice and
dowell, dovetail or screw or any combination and then put a litlle glue.

All those glues are hazardous chemicals, use gloves, be carefull with dust.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 04:44 PM
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This might be more info than you're looking for but it certainly can't hurt!
Steve from California
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Which Glue Do You Use.pdf (364.2 KB, 195 views)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 09:39 PM
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great article steve

Maryann, Titebond type 2 and type 3 for water resistant

Learning is an exciting adventure
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 12:15 AM
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Titebond 2 and 3 are very good but should be used only out of the weather. Even though they claim to be waterproof, I wouldn't trust them to heavy exposure to water. Gorilla glues and other polyurethanes are waterproof and glue oily woods but need a good fit and are messy to use. Epoxies are totally waterproof and glue oily woods as Gerard pointed out but are also not so nice to use. They are great for gluing poorly fitted joints, especially if you add some glass filler.
Another option for outside are the glues that come in a caulking tube such as Lepages PL 400 and 500. They are totally waterproof and will also fill gaps but will allow a little movement after as they stay a bit rubbery.
For inside use on non oily woods just about any glue will give adequate results.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 09:20 AM
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I use Titebond III(the green label bottle) for everything but Formica. For that I use Weldwood contact cement. I have never had any problems with glue failure.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by maryann View Post
any suggestions on the best glues for laminating different types of wood ?
Hi maryAnn

Im commercial work (shop/restaurant/bar fitting) we generally don't use white glues (PVA) or yellow glues (aliphatic resin, Titebond, etc) because even the exterior grades can and do suffer from glue joint "creep". PU (polyurethane) glues (like Gorilla) are similarly a no-no because they tend to have clean-up issues - if they foam out it tends to fill the grain and make clean-up and subsequent finishing (at least with clear finishes) a nightmare. Most of the time I've used UF (urea formaldehyde) or RF (resorcibol formaldehyde) glues, often sold as "plastic resin" (brands include Cascamite, cascaphen, Extramite, etc). These give a very strong, creep-resistent joint and are partly weatherproof. If you are doing more than 2 or 3 pieces they will work out much cheaper than buying the epoxy resins so favoured by boat builders. For one shot applications, though, the epoxy glues are available in much smaller quantities and so may work out more economical


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