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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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I joined this forum less than a week ago and must be driving everybody nuts with all of my questions. The response that I have gotten has been much appreciated.

Today I have a new question for you folks. It is in regard to my PC bench top jointer. I bought the machine a couple of years ago. I didn't know squat about jointers and still know very little more than when I started except that I can flatten a workpiece pretty well on one side before I run it through the planer. I have no way to knowing if the reslults that I am getting are normal or not. When I start with workpiece that is near an inch thick and say 20" long and 6" wide with just a slight bow in it, it may be, if I'm lucky, that I end up with it being .625". Now this may be normal, I don't know, but it may be that if I were more skillful that I would be able to get the board flat quicker and thicker. I am wondering if a better machine with a longer in and out feeds would be of value. This little jointer is very inexpensive compared to the larger more expensive jointer that I have been looking at.

Comments please.

Jerry
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 07:20 PM
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Considering that a 1" board is normally less than 1", I would say that you are achieving about as much as you could from a bowed board.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 07:22 PM
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Generally, for the piece to be flat on one side, the ends are going to be thinner by the amount of bow in the piece.
My method is to set the bow above the cutter and push it through, cutting one end. Then I reverse it and cut the other end. Only enough pressure on the piece to push it through. Don't push down on the bowed part. After a few passes (varies), you can run it all the way from end to end.
Unless you absolutely need the full length, crosscut the piece at the center of the bow, then joint it. You'll lose less wood in flattening it.

Gene Howe
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Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.

Last edited by Gene Howe; 03-20-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Gene,

I appreciate your responding to my question about the jointer. I am not sure about adding my name and location to the thread. I think that it does exist in my intial profile. Can you enlighten me a liitle bit as to what you are referring to, and where to add the information. Thanks, Jerry Bowen, in Colorado City, Texas
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Gene,

When I started my woodworking adventure, my primary need was to make picture frames. The frames were about 30" x 24" and made from workpieces that were about two and half inches wide. I have never been sure that there is a great need to flatten the boards on the jointer or not, but I did so anyway. Now, I am wondering if the need for flattening is only when one is going to be edge joining and not really needed in other applications such as making picture frames.

Also, you did not comment on the need for a better and/or larger jointer with the longer in and out feed tables.

Jerry Bpwen
Colorado City, Texas
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
I joined this forum less than a week ago and must be driving everybody nuts with all of my questions. The response that I have gotten has been much appreciated.

Today I have a new question for you folks. It is in regard to my PC bench top jointer. I bought the machine a couple of years ago. I didn't know squat about jointers and still know very little more than when I started except that I can flatten a workpiece pretty well on one side before I run it through the planer. I have no way to knowing if the reslults that I am getting are normal or not. When I start with workpiece that is near an inch thick and say 20" long and 6" wide with just a slight bow in it, it may be, if I'm lucky, that I end up with it being .625". Now this may be normal, I don't know, but it may be that if I were more skillful that I would be able to get the board flat quicker and thicker. I am wondering if a better machine with a longer in and out feeds would be of value. This little jointer is very inexpensive compared to the larger more expensive jointer that I have been looking at.

Comments please.

Jerry
I use my jointer to square up the opposing faces of boards to be butt-joined. I use my thickness planer to flatten, smooth and prepare the right thickness for a project. If I find a piece of wood is bowed I try to pick something more straight. Hope to keep life simple for myself and to help where I can.

"Even bad decisions make good stories"

<bcfunburst>
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
Hi Gene,

I appreciate your responding to my question about the jointer. I am not sure about adding my name and location to the thread. I think that it does exist in my intial profile. Can you enlighten me a liitle bit as to what you are referring to, and where to add the information. Thanks, Jerry Bowen, in Colorado City, Texas
How to edge-joint bowed stock
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
Hi Gene,

I appreciate your responding to my question about the jointer. I am not sure about adding my name and location to the thread. I think that it does exist in my intial profile. Can you enlighten me a liitle bit as to what you are referring to, and where to add the information. Thanks, Jerry Bowen, in Colorado City, Texas
Jerry,
That line about updating the profile appears as part of my signature and is appended to all of my posts. It wasn't directed at you. Just a reminder to all. I see you have already given your location in your profile. Thanks for that!

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
Gene,

When I started my woodworking adventure, my primary need was to make picture frames. The frames were about 30" x 24" and made from workpieces that were about two and half inches wide. I have never been sure that there is a great need to flatten the boards on the jointer or not, but I did so anyway. Now, I am wondering if the need for flattening is only when one is going to be edge joining and not really needed in other applications such as making picture frames.

Also, you did not comment on the need for a better and/or larger jointer with the longer in and out feed tables.

Jerry Bpwen
Colorado City, Texas

Jerry,
Bigger is always better.
My rule of thumb is to have at least 1/2 of the work piece supported by the out feed table. If your jointer is the PC Shopmaster, your out feed is approximately 16" long, right?
If you have a bow or twist in the middle of a 20" piece, the leading end is likely to drop off the end of the out feed just as the trailing end approaches the cutter. Not good.
So, unless you can devise an auxiliary table, a longer bed might be wise.
If you have a planer, there are various ways, involving sleds, to use it as a jointer.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 02:53 PM
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Jerry - in reference to your post re: picture frames. It is good that you have been straightening your frame pieces because trying to cut well-fitting miter joints is almost impossible with wood that has any dimensional distortion. Keep on straightening...
Steve in Rancho Cucamonga, CA.
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