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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bosch 4100

I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 10:19 PM
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I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?
Hi James - Afraid you're right.. The 4100 really wants a thin kerf blade. The Freud spec on that LU84 is for a plate of .087, very, very close to the thickness of your riving knife. The knife needs to be thinner than the kerf but thicker than the plate of the blade. You may also have a slight misalighnment issue, it wouldn't take much. Try the Freud LU83 series thin kerf combination. Same tooth specs as your LU84 but with a kerf of .091 and plate of .071.
BTW, The riving knife has the thicknes stamped on it on my Ridgid 4510, maybe yours is stamped also and is out of specs???

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.

Last edited by jschaben; 04-05-2012 at 10:25 PM.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 08:35 AM
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I've been using that exact blade for quite some time on my 4100 with no trouble.
But, I will say that when I first installed it, I also adjusted the riving knife to be aligned with the "outside" of the plate, not the teeth. I'm saying outside meaning the side opposite the fence.
Just lay a straightedge against the body of your blade (make sure it doesn't touch a tooth) and adjust the riving knife to that. Also, with the 4100, make sure that it is perpendicular to your blade. Yeah, you have to make both adjustments simultaneously but, once done, your done.
In my experience with that blade, you should be very,very happy.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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I spent so time re-aligning the riving knife and it seems to have solved the problem. Thank you for your prompt response.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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I followed your instructions and the adjustment seems to have worked. Bosch gives no instructions about riving knife adjustment. Apparently, if everything works with their blade, no adjustment is needed. I appreciate your quick response.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 07:16 PM
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Default Riving Knife Adjustment From the Bosch Manual

I have this saw. While I have to say the riving knife adjustments mentioned here make more sense to me Bosch does include instructions. The following is from the manual for the 4100-09. If you did not receive a manual it is online,

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/r19628v2.pdf

From Online manual page 42 (the manual has diagrams)

Riving Knife Alignment IMPORTANT: The Riving Knife 1 must always be in line with the
Saw Blade 2. The Riving Knife 1 is thinner than the width of the Kerf 4 by approximately three thicknesses of paper 5 on each side (Fig 27). Note: The Kerf is the width of the cut made by the teeth on the saw blade.
To prevent personal injury, always disconnect plug
from power source before making any adjustments and when attaching or removing the Smart Guard System.
Checking Riving Knife Alignment NOTE: The Riving Knife has been properly aligned at the factory -
Check the alignment before making any adjustments.
1. Raise the Saw Blade to maximum height and set the bevel angle to 0°.
2. Remove the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device (see manual).
3.Place the Rip Fence 3 on the right side and slide it until it touches the tips of the Saw Blade 2 - Lock fence.
4. Check the alignment:
A. From the top, look down over the Fence and check that the Riving Knife is in line (front to back) with the blade and parallel with the fence.
B. Slide the fence away from the blade. Look over the front of the blade and check that the Riving Knife is in line with the blade.
C. If steps A or B show misalignment, proceed to “Adjusting Riving Knife”.
Adjusting Riving Knife 1. Raise the Saw Blade 2 to maximum height and set the bevel
angle to 0°.
2. Remove the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device (see manual).
3. Remove the Table Insert. 4. Place the Rip Fence 3 on the right side and slide it until it touches
the tips of the Saw Blade 2 - Lock fence.
5. Loosen Hex Nut 6 with 10mm open end wrench (Fig. 28). Slightly loosen Clamping Screws 8 (1/4-1/2 turns) using a 5mm Allen wrench provided with table saw (stored in right side of base). Loosen Set Screw 7 using a flat screwdriver (Fig. 28).
6. Make two folds in a small piece of paper (6" x 6") forming three layers (Fig. 27). Paper 5 is used as a “Spacing Gauge”.
NOTE: The spacing instructions above are based on using a standard kerf blade (.128” kerf on the Bosch blade included). If a smaller kerf blade is used, adjust the paper spacer. For instance, if the kerf of the replacement blade is near .100”, use 1 thickness of paper as a spacer; if the kerf is near .110”, use 2 thicknesses.
7. Insert folded paper 5 between Riving Knife 1 and Fence 3.
A. Hold Riving Knife and paper firmly against Fence (Fig. 28 & 29).
B. Lightly tighten the clamp screws 8.
C. Remove the paper - Slide fence away from blade.
D. Slowly turn the Set Screw 7 while watching the Riving Knife tilt until it is in line with the blade.
E. Recheck squareness of riving knife to table by sliding fence against blade. Readjust if necessary.
8. After completing adjustments:
A. Lightly tighten hex nut 6 (hold set screw position with screwdriver while tightening nut).
B. Fully tighten Clamp Screws 8 with Allen wrench. Then fully tighten the hex nut.
NOTE: Check that the riving knife stays in line with blade when the blade is tilted at any angle. Replace the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device before making cuts.


from online manual page 30


IMPORTANT: The saw blade provided on this tool has a carbide-tipped kerf width of .128” and a plate (body) thickness that is .086” thick. When looking for a replacement blade, select one with dimensions close to the original blade. This information may not be printed on the blades packaging. If not, check the manufacturers catalog or website. Bosch offers an extensive line of Premium-Quality Professional Saw Blades that match the requirements for this tool. You must select a blade with a kerf width of .092” or more and a plate (body) thickness .088” or less (Fig. 10).
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use extra
thin kerf saw blades. The kerf of the blade must be wider than .092”. Extra thin kerf saw blades (less than .092”) may cause the work piece to bind against the riving knife during cutting. It is recommended that the kerf of the
replacement blade used on this saw be .092” or more.
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use saw
blades made with a thick body plate. If the replacement saw blade's plate thickness is greater than .088”, the riving knife would not properly serve as an aid to reduce kickback. The replacement blade's plate thickness must be less
than .088”.
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use blade
“dampeners,” “stabilizers,” or “stiffening collars” on both sides of a replacement blade. These are metal plates positioned against the sides of the blade to reduce deflection that may occur when using thin saw blades. Use of these devices on both sides will prevent the blade from being properly aligned with the riving knife, which may bind the work piece during cutting. One “stabilizer” plate may be placed only against the outside of a thin replacement blade. These plates are
not required with the supplied Bosch blade.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 12:17 PM
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Default Blade To Miter Slot Alignment

Hello everyone. I purchased a Bosch 4100 table saw earlier this year and have used it to build a stand for my bench top drill press. I noticed some burning on my pieces during the whole thing but continued on anyway since it was just a simple stand made from cheap 2X4’s. Well, as I became more educated about table saws I went thru all of the alignments and discovered that the saw blade was not perfectly parallel to the miter slots. I used a combination square to do the measurement and best I can tell there is between .010 and .020 inch difference. I went thru the alignment as outlined in the manual but I couldn’t make any adjustment. Bosch support told me that some of the mounting brackets (part 2610950126 and 2610950127) that support the holding plate assembly (part 2610950051) were machined without enough play for adjustment. So they sent me front and rear replacements. They also told me that there were no instructions available on how to replace them and that if I had trouble to just send the saw to one of their service centers which I would prefer not to do. This has been a bit frustrating since I cannot seem to find any information about how to replace the brackets. When I found this forum and thread about the 4100 it seemed to me a good bet to pose my question here. Hopefully I can get some information or some good advice which would be just as good. Thank you.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MM94550 View Post
Hello everyone. I purchased a Bosch 4100 table saw earlier this year and have used it to build a stand for my bench top drill press. I noticed some burning on my pieces during the whole thing but continued on anyway since it was just a simple stand made from cheap 2X4’s. Well, as I became more educated about table saws I went thru all of the alignments and discovered that the saw blade was not perfectly parallel to the miter slots. I used a combination square to do the measurement and best I can tell there is between .010 and .020 inch difference. I went thru the alignment as outlined in the manual but I couldn’t make any adjustment. Bosch support told me that some of the mounting brackets (part 2610950126 and 2610950127) that support the holding plate assembly (part 2610950051) were machined without enough play for adjustment. So they sent me front and rear replacements. They also told me that there were no instructions available on how to replace them and that if I had trouble to just send the saw to one of their service centers which I would prefer not to do. This has been a bit frustrating since I cannot seem to find any information about how to replace the brackets. When I found this forum and thread about the 4100 it seemed to me a good bet to pose my question here. Hopefully I can get some information or some good advice which would be just as good. Thank you.
I have my GI at .002 (blade to miter slot ) and fence at .005 runout . But I still had the odd issue so I have adjusted the fence for more runout

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by EQUINOX400 View Post
I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?
raise the blade a little bit....

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 02:01 PM
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I have my GI at .002 (blade to miter slot ) and fence at .005 runout . But I still had the odd issue so I have adjusted the fence for more runout
Update: Well I just decided to take the plunge anyway to replace those brackets. I started with the front bracket with the machine in it’s stow away position (I have the 4100-09 with the gravity stand). After blocking up the plate assembly with some pieces of 2X4’s the front bracket came off with just a bit of coaxing. But before replacing it with the new one I measured the hole diameters and found them to be the same as the new bracket, 0.268”. Interesting. So I put it back without replacing it. The rear bracket hole diameters measured 0.258”. I didn’t replace it either. Seems that I had the proper brackets to begin with and the issue is with the procedure outlined in the manual to make the blade to miter slot adjustment. So I went ahead and used the technique used with machines that have a trunion. After making measurements and finding out what side needed to be moved, I used a piece of round stock bar about 10” long to tap the bracket. After several iterations of tapping and re-measuring I finally got the blade to miter slot to be close to 0.002”. Seemed like a good number to me. After all of that was done I ripped 6 pieces of plywood 1 ¾” laminated stock to square up. No burning what so ever. I am now happy!
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