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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Default variable space boxjoints

I make small boxes. Looking for a way to make variable spaced box joints that are very clean.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Malcolm Byrd View Post
I make small boxes. Looking for a way to make variable spaced box joints that are very clean.

The PDF file below is a good way to achieve what you are after if I understand your question correctly. It doesn't show using the router but doing it with the router like the table saw method is much the same procedure.
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File Type: pdf Lap Cornered Box Plan.pdf (2.61 MB, 974 views)

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Last edited by Ken Bee; 04-11-2012 at 10:38 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 07:01 AM
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You may want to Google " Lynn's jig ". There are many posts on it, both here and elsewhere. It uses a threaded rod to allow incremental spacing of your cuts. With the appropriate number of turns of the threaded rod all kinds of spacing patterns can be created using either a router table or a table saw.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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Default variable spaced box joints

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Originally Posted by Ken Bee View Post
The PDF file below is a good way to achieve what you are after if I understand your question correctly. It doesn't show using the router but doing it with the router like the table saw method is much the same procedure.
Man I hadn't thought of making the joints like that. I have tried some of these jigs like Incra where you move the fence a certain amount, but if the router bit is slightly under sized the joint is too loose. The PDF file shows cutting to fit the lid with a large straight router bit - I use that on my boxes, but to prevent tearouts at the end of the cut, I do a climb-cut carefully. Thanks for the information.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:45 PM
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Man I hadn't thought of making the joints like that. I have tried some of these jigs like Incra where you move the fence a certain amount, but if the router bit is slightly under sized the joint is too loose. The PDF file shows cutting to fit the lid with a large straight router bit - I use that on my boxes, but to prevent tearouts at the end of the cut, I do a climb-cut carefully. Thanks for the information.
Making joints for a box is only limited by your imagination you know. How about a combination of dovetails and box joints on each corner? Such as dovetail, box joint, dovetail, box joint, dovetail. How about box joint, very wide dovetail, box joint or dovetail, wide box joint, dovetail or even a vertical sliding dovetail at each corner?

I use mostly 45 degree miter joints reinforced with contrasting splines for my boxes, but am working on a jig to cut dovetails on my router table at any given place on the box corner to reinforce the miter joint. The plan for the jig originated from the March/April 2011 issue of Shop Notes or issue Vol. 20 Issue 116 if you will.

In other words just go crazy and re-invent the wheel or box as it were.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default box joint / dovetail combination

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Originally Posted by Ken Bee View Post
Making joints for a box is only limited by your imagination you know. How about a combination of dovetails and box joints on each corner? Such as dovetail, box joint, dovetail, box joint, dovetail. How about box joint, very wide dovetail, box joint or dovetail, wide box joint, dovetail or even a vertical sliding dovetail at each corner?

I use mostly 45 degree miter joints reinforced with contrasting splines for my boxes, but am working on a jig to cut dovetails on my router table at any given place on the box corner to reinforce the miter joint. The plan for the jig originated from the March/April 2011 issue of Shop Notes or issue Vol. 20 Issue 116 if you will.

In other words just go crazy and re-invent the wheel or box as it were.
I make boxes with mitered corners with splines. Lately I used rosewood hardwood flooring for boxes. Can't plane or sand off the original finish so I leave it & plane from back side. Have to tape good side to another board to run through planer else get scratches.
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