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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Default Question about finish inside cabinets

I've asked this before, I believe, but can't find it. So I'll ask again. ;o)

I'm about finished my first piece of cabinet for our kitchen redo, and I'm back at the question to how to finish the inside. Should I paint it white, or just seal it, somehow. I'm more leaning towards just sealing it, and maybe put some sort of liner or something on the bottoms to protect from sliding pots and stuff. Or just sealing the bottom. Any suggestions welcomed.

I'm going to stain and poly the outside, the inside lips of the face frame and inside the doors. And most likely a dark stain. Similar to this vanity I did earlier. But what should I do for the inside of the carcass??
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 07:34 AM
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Hi Lee,

Base cabinets look good painted white inside - Look clean and lighter inside. my 2cents...

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 09:54 AM
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Yes. Have you got access to a sprayer? White lacquer would be very fast and durable.
Laminate on the wear surfaces would be best, but that means doing both sides, to cancel out the warping which one side laminating tends to cause...
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 10:27 AM
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Hi Lee.
For stain grade cabinets I just spray clear. Insides only get stained to match outsides if it has glass doors. I only paint insides on paint grade cabinets unless customer wants a clear coat on the inside.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Dan, I have a cheap Wagner sprayer, that's about it. I also have access to a gravity fed air sprayer, but I've tried it in the back yard, and it makes too much of a mess. I painted everything!!! LOL Grass, fire-pit, you name and it was somewhat painted.

I am leaning towards what James (U.S.) suggested in just clear coating it. I am thinking of doing some type of glass doors on the wall cabinets, but it'll be smoked or glazed or something. You won't see in it.

I was thinking (Dan) of using a laminate or some type of liner on the bottoms, and shelves, to protect them from dragging pots and pans. But I don't know.. If I have to do both sides, that might be a deal killer. You really think Dan, that it would warp 3/4" shelves? Using just a little spray adhesive?? My wife, on the other hand, is more in line of just using contact paper, like we have on our old cabinets.

Don't know!! SOOOO many decisions....
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 06:10 PM
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For the shelves you can just apply the clear poly. For the bottom of the base cabinets where you store your pots, how about making some shallow pullouts with bearing slides? You won't have to get on your hands & knees to reach items in the back. Use hinges that allow the doors to open wide enough to clear the pullouts. You can just clear coat the drawers with poly.

You can also just apply laminate to the bottom shelf where the pots are stored. You shouldn't have to apply it on the under side also because the temperature range is more consistent inside the home. It might be a problem in the garage or shop as the temps vary much more than inside the home.

James
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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No James, the way this cabinet is, pullouts aren't possible. I was going to put a lazy susan, but my wife said no, we'd loose to much storage space. She's fine getting on her knees and digging for what she wants. I'm going to make pullouts on the cabinet under the sink. And our only other base cabinet, instead of doors, I'm putting two big drawers. So her only inconvenience is going to be that corner cabinet.

So that's going to be my plan. Clear coat everything inside, and put a laminate or liner on the shelves and bottoms.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 09:17 PM
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Lee, I honestly don't know. It's just commonly done for the reason I suggested, but look at laminated counter-tops. They're only laminated on one side; underside has nothing. Even flat application laminate doesn't seem to cause any problems. Various slabs of counter-top lie around the shops without any problem...the warning is simply a reflection of a generally accepted practice. Give it a shot!
On the shot of spray adhesive part, don't forget to do both surfaces. And use a laminate roller to get a really secure bond.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 08:32 AM
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If you're only going to laminate the bottom, you could cut the laminate to fit and just lay it in there. My 2 cents on the inside of cabinets without glass doors is to keep them light, a white or light tan color. I install kitchens and baths, the inside of the cabinets are finished with a light wood grain melamine, or on higher end, the insides are finished with a very ligt stain. That is regardless of the color of the outside. On glass door cabinets the finish of inside and outside match. "Lighter is brighter"!

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha Dan. I'l probably do as Jack suggested, and just lay the laminet down, no glue. At least on the bottoms. On the shelfs, if it looks like it wants to curl up, maybe I'll just hit the front area with some spray adhesive, and then rely on what's in there to hold the rest down.

Thanks all!!
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