Squareing The Blade On The Table Saw - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Squareing The Blade On The Table Saw

Recently my brother who lives in Alaska bought a new Delta lathe and has been turning segmented bowls. He phoned me a few days ago and ask me to glue up some contrasting wood and prepare it for him to turn for me. I went to work on the project and all went well until it was time to cut the pie shaped parts before glueing them together. Getting 45 degee cuts right was not much a problem using the Incra miter gauge, with its fence, stops, and the Express sled. I squared the blade of the saw with my machinist square as best I could. The cuts had to be 2.75" deep to cut through the work piece. In order to get the faces square so that they could be joined, the blade had to cut dead on square. However, my set up was off and caused me to have keep tweeking the blade and then checking the cuts by placeing two faces together and checking the fit. After several tweeks I finally got the the blade set so that the faces of the cuts were coming out square and everything glued up to my satisfacton.

What I am wondering is if the tool that i see being sold with a digital read out for setting the angle on the saw blade is accurate enough to be of value. Then of course there is the issue that even though the blade is dead on, it may not cut perfectly square do to pressure be applied to only one side of the workpiece when the deep cuts are made. Any advise or comments on the issue?

Jerry
Colorado City, TX
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post

What I am wondering is if the tool that i see being sold with a digital read out for setting the angle on the saw blade is accurate enough to be of value. Then of course there is the issue that even though the blade is dead on, it may not cut perfectly square do to pressure be applied to only one side of the workpiece when the deep cuts are made. Any advise or comments on the issue?
Those devices are pretty accurate. Better than a square for sure. Just remember to zero it out on your table first.

Not so sure the pressure on the side of the blade will be that much though as you're normally cutting along it's axis, not perpendicular to it.

Am I understanding you correctly?
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:31 PM
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Based on Wixley's stated accuracy of 0.1 degree. Across 2.75" I believe that's just shy of 5 thousandths. (tan= Op/Adj) ... tan(0.1) = 0.0017 ... 0.0017 x 2.75" = 0.0048".

Just a little over 1/256th

As long as the blade is aligned to the miter slot there should be no lateral vector to cause a deflection of the blade.

GCG
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Hilton,

Thanks for your input on the tool. I can only suspect that the error that was still present after trying to square the blade with the square was due to that not being the best way to try to square the blade. That is why I am wondering about the tool that I made reference to. I will talk to Rockler and about it and probably buy one. Until this project came up, cross cutting three quarter inch to an inch thick workpieces had not been a problem, but the deeper cut amplified the problem and so, the quesion came up. Thanks again and have a great day.

Jerry
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 08:30 PM
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Jerry, be sure you are squaring the blade to the table and not the throat plate. If you reference the throat plate and its not level, the blade will be off. Wixey digital won't fix the error unless again it is referenced from the table. You probably know this.. just a thought!
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Duane, yes Ii am award of what you are saying. Can you comment on the value of the Wixely tool. it seems to me that it would be a good tool to have for squareing the blade to the table top and alos to use in the set up for setting the blade for cutting 45s. Comment on the tool for me if you read this if you can.

Back to the issue of the throat plate, if it is removed and the blade squared to the table top, then the throat plate is replaced and it is not absolutely flush iwth the table top, the effort made to square the blade will be of no value will it.

Jerry

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 04-18-2012 at 06:15 AM.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Patrick,

Your input is what I have been hoping for, thanks so much for your input.

Jerry
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:13 PM
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Sometimes using blade stiffeners can help too. When I have to make really accurate mitres with a chop saw I usually put them on. Even Forrest recommends using themwith their blades.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:22 PM
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Thanks Patrick,

Your input is what I have been hoping for, thanks so much for your input.

Jerry
I can't help but recall all the people in math class that swore they'd "never use this stuff".

Never say never.

GCG
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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The problem with using a stiffener for my application is that the cut needs to be at least 2.75" deep and that is the maximim height of the blade that is possible when the workpiece is riding on the sled, a stiffener restricts the height of the blade, so a stiffener for this application is not an option but I do agree that the stiffener will stabilizd the blade and I use one when I can.

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