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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Default Glue joint

I am putting down a hardwood floor (ash) bought lumber already planned and sized.
But it has varible lenths. Without cutting a lot of lumber off pieces I want to just put a small glue joint on end of piece. So that I can butt one piece to the next. The sides are smooth.The lumber is all 4"; 5" and 6" wide. This is for a cabin so it does not have to be perfect. What it the best way of doing this project. I have a glue joint bit, straight 1/4 shank. I have a small handheld 1 1/2hp router. And a small table also. thanks, wamz
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 05:07 PM
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All the glue joint bits I know of have to be used with a fence and yo try to pass something as long as flooring 90 degrees along a fence is going to be very hard to do. I would suggest using either a shiplap type joint or going tongue and groove with a bearing guided set. Either of those ways could be done handheld.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 06:13 PM
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A floor without tongue and groove is going to be a real problem. The wood will move from one season to the next leaving ugly gaps. Gluing end pieces won't work. They will come apart very quickly. I recommend you rethink your approach.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 06:14 AM
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The wood needs to be able to so gluing it will be a bad idea. The ends don't need to be glued butted is fine. When you cut the boards use a miter saw and not a circular hand saw. Use the miter saw with it resting on the floor and let the boards hand over the edge of the saw so that one end lays on the floor. This will create a slight angle at the cut. It will create a somewhat scarf joint which will make the ends much tighter looking.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 06:51 AM
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Hardwood flooring comes with tongue and groove edges for a good reason. The boards will change their width with changes in humidity and the tongue and groove joints will allow for this while keeping the boards flat and in line with each other. There will also be no gaps between the boards. You want a tongue on one edge and one end, and a groove on the otheredge and the other end of each board. This can be done with the correct bits and a heavy duty router, but it is best done when the boards are milled. There are also shallow wide grooves tat are milled in the bottom side of the boards. These grooves are there to help keep the boards flat after installation. To minimize waste when installing the floor, the off cut from the end of a run can be the starter for the next run so there is never a joint between two boards without a tongue and groove. Each board in a run will have it's groove side join with the tongue of the previously installed run and the tongue end of each board will join with the tongue on the end of the previously installed board. The nails are installed at an angle through base of the tongue so their heads are hidden by the next board. Since ash is a very hard wood I strongly recommend that you rent an air powered hardwood flooring nail gun to do the installation. There will be almost no waste if you install it this way. You should look at the manufactured hardwood flooring and watch a few videos about installing hardwood flooring before you attempt this. Here is one of the many available on Youtube.

Hardwood Flooring Installation: Nail Down Solid Hardwood Installation - YouTube

I've installed many hardwood floors in my life and can say that it's a very hard job, even if the flooring is already fully milled, sanded, and pre-finished. Since you will be doing about 1/2 of the machining work as well you are in for a significant workout. I wish you the best of luck. Please post some photos of your progress and completion.

Charley

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 10:38 AM
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Just a thought, 'wamz', how about taking your wood into a millwork shop and pay them to T&G your lumber(?). It'll be accurate and painless...except for the paying part.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Just a thought, 'wamz', how about taking your wood into a millwork shop and pay them to T&G your lumber(?). It'll be accurate and painless...except for the paying part.
I agree....T&G or slot and tongue is the way to go...

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 03:04 AM
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Hi Wamz

I sometimes do repairs on commercial flooring using planed timber. To joint-in the timber I simply rout a groove down both edges and fix the boards using a loose tenon, something like thin rips of 1/4in plywood. Works for small areas and I've often used the technique for plywood sub-flooring, but for larger areas I'd get a local carpentry/millwork shop to tongue and groove your timber, as others have suggested - much less work!

Regards

Phil
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2012, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. My knees are already killing me.. One other question. What place is best to order some bearing guided sets for T & G. That has a 1/4 inch shafts.
Wamz
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2012, 09:12 AM
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MLCS Woodworking Adaptor Bushings and Ball Bearing Guides

But do note that most of the cutters come with a 5/16" hole or a the nasty 8mm hole in them..

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wamz View Post
Thanks for all of the suggestions. My knees are already killing me.. One other question. What place is best to order some bearing guided sets for T & G. That has a 1/4 inch shafts.
Wamz



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