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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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Just less than a year ago I purchased a 10" Freud diadlo 24 tooth blade(D1024x) for my tablesaw. First task was cutting some 3/4" oak for a mantle clock and it worked great. Since then I've used it for a couple shop projects (router table,planer stand) using mdf and some pine cabinet door frames. Today I cut some more 3/4" oak and allmost had to force it thru with lots of burning. I use a Diablo blade on my 8 1/4" sliding miter saw with great results so I dont doubt the quality. But could it be the wrong blade choice? Is there an "all purpase" blade? Or should I have different blades for hardwoods and mdf?

Thanks, Rusty
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 04:16 AM
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The 24 tooth blade is made just for ripping wood. You can buy a Diablo 50 tooth combo blade if you dont cut that much hardwood or since you have the rip blade you may want to buy a cross cut or finish blade with 80 teeth. I have used the 50 tooth blade for over a year(for general cutting) and am pleased with it's performance. Mind you I change to a 24 tooth blade for extended ripping jobs, and an 80 tooth blade for cutting plywood, particle board, plastic or laminate. More teeth = a finer cut. Send your Diablo blade to a saw sharpening service and they will restore it's performance for a reasonable price. One other thing, depending on where you buy your Freud blade it will be red and may be labeled Diablo or Industrial. Either way is fine. Buying one of the tools to assist in blade changing takes most of the struggle out of the process and reduces the chance of blade damage or personal injury.(I bought the Bench Dog)
Perhaps Charles M.will tell us of any difference between these blades and the standard chrome steel blades?

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Last edited by Mike; 11-05-2006 at 04:33 AM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-12-2006, 02:17 PM
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A couple of thoughts on blade sharpening. There is a difference in sharpening shops. My experience is it is worth the extra bucks to send my blades to Forrest Mfg, the saw blade folks, to have my blades resharpened. Yes they will resharpen all brands. A blade stabilizer (from Forrest) makes a big difference. A clean blade is important. I use 409 and a scrub brush. (remove the blade from the saw please)
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-12-2006, 04:48 PM
 
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Hello Rusty. To be honest with u i paid as much as 125.00 bux for a blade,, no more i get mine from harbor freight there great and for 10.00 bux for an 80 tooth carbide blde u cant go wrong ........try one u cant go wrong......Yom
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 07:08 AM
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Forrest Blades is a company with a very different view on how saw blades should work from Freud. They use different methods to achieve great results such as different rake angles, different materials in their saw bodies, different engineering. By all reports Forrest Blades make the finest quality blades available, starting out at around $100. I have never used their products. Compare this to the $40 price of the Freud Diablo or industrial blades. Since I get great results using the Diablo I never "saw" a reason to spend more on a blade. Perhaps if I owned a better quality cabinet saw I would? In the wisdom of a former co-worker: "It's good enough for the kind of girls we go with."

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18243015
Just less than a year ago I purchased a 10" Freud diadlo 24 tooth blade(D1024x) for my tablesaw. First task was cutting some 3/4" oak for a mantle clock and it worked great. Since then I've used it for a couple shop projects (router table,planer stand) using mdf and some pine cabinet door frames. Today I cut some more 3/4" oak and allmost had to force it thru with lots of burning. I use a Diablo blade on my 8 1/4" sliding miter saw with great results so I dont doubt the quality. But could it be the wrong blade choice? Is there an "all purpase" blade? Or should I have different blades for hardwoods and mdf?

Thanks, Rusty
Rusty,

The D1024X is a rip blade so if you need a blade for crosscut you will need one with more teeth, either a combination or general purpose or a dedicated crosscut blade. The primary reasons for increased feed pressure and burning can be the result of dulling or of saw alignment. MDF is tough on cutters and can contain foreign objects that will chip the teeth so that is a distinct possibility but I think you should begin by verifying the alignment of the saw.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Charles.

I was hoping to get your input. I got the D1024X as an alternative to a $10 HF 80 tooth blade that cut very clean but slow with MDF. And I was ripping 3/4" oak when I had the burning issue.

But since posting, the saw in question has started to whine loudly for about 20 seconds at start up. So I think a bad bearing is causing my cutting problems. And I am probably in the market for a new saw a little sooner than I'd planned.

Rusty
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 10:08 AM
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Hi Rusty

Here's a SMALL tip I use when I rip OAK,(hardwood) Oak can be nasty when you rip it because it will sometimes burn and put on that nasty burn marks that are hard to get off.
I take a good 8" or 9" rip blade and put on sand paper on both sides of the blade (150grit the norm) I use #77 3M spray glue to put the sand paper .
It will sand and cut at the same time so to speak and the parts will come out clean without burn marks or rip marks.
You will need to replace the sand paper in time but that's not a big deal with a sharp putty knife.

Just a small note***you should not use the 80 tooth blade to rip with
It will take on the MDF but MDF is hard on blades use your cheap blade to cut MDF with a bit of sand paper it works great, just add a 1/32" to the stock when you make the cut.

Bj




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Last edited by bobj3; 11-14-2006 at 10:53 AM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 10:29 PM
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Bob, never heard that before on the sand paper trick. Arent good 8 and 9 inch blades kind of hard to find? Thanks for the tip!

Corey
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 09:05 AM
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Hi Corey

You're Welcome, 8" and the 9" blades can be had at just about any HD or Ace Hardware but you can use 10" but the sand paper is a bit hard to find but you can use the big sanding disks but they are not cheap like a pack of 8 1/2" x 11" sanding paper.
Plus the 8" blades cost less than the 10" ones and the 8" blades will rip just about all you will need to rip down for cabinet work.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g4252
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1219
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1213

Bj




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Last edited by bobj3; 11-15-2006 at 06:10 PM.
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