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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hope I put this in the correct forum. Got a question about wood glue on a project Im begining. The project is a adirondack glider that calls for 2xs and I plan on using white oak. I have some relatively inexpensive rough cut white oak available in 1Xs that would obviously need to be planed and glued up. Keeping in mind that I live in the constant humidity of the Houston area, should I take a chance with the glued 1xs (if so, which glue)? Should I just buy the lumber in 2xs. Or, should I forget about white oak all together and go with another type of wood (hopefully cheaper)? BTW, this glider will be under a covered patio. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 01:17 PM
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Some people call Cypress - White Oak if this is what Ya have it will be fine. Either way You should be o.k. if it is a covered area. I make a good bit of outdoor furniture I use Titebond 2 or 3 glue but always back up the joint with a outdoor screws also look for a product called TWP ( I think it stands for total weather protection) any way this is by far the best stain protectant I have found and works great here in the HUUUMidity valley of the U.S.A. south Louisiana.... Treated lumber from the big stores works pretty good but will splinter and bend alot more in time

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Someone in another forum mentioned that laminating boards from different trees with different grain might cause the wood to move at different rates causing warpage. Thoughts???
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 05:42 PM
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If it's the same species, it's probably going to move in a similar manner. You can try to minimize any differences by laminating boards that have a similar grain pattern, or by ripping wider boards and laminating them together to get the thickness you need (assuming your boards are wide enough to do so)

I've used titebond 3 outside with no problems, and the original gorilla glue (messy if you're not careful)

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papawd View Post
Treated lumber from the big stores works pretty good but will splinter and bend alot more in time
No, treated wood is not acceptable for something people are going to be sitting on and around. It's treated with some very nasty stuff, and should not be used for animal shelters either.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 07:24 AM
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Don't particularity agree with the treated wood statement, test have shown that CCA treated products leaching is minimal and not harmful for the environment or mammals. But I would use the White Oak as PAPA stated. Titebond 3 is rated for outdoor use.
p.s. all treated wood is not equal, the process varies from company to company.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 07:33 AM
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If your wood is going to be covered it doesn't need to be weather resisitant. You could use pine which is probably the cheapest. West Coast cypress is a relative of red cedar, it is also called yellow cedar. Red cedar is also related to the redwood tree which is well known for its weather resistance. Your cyress could be different but unless the foliage drops off in the wintertime it can't be related to an oak.
I wouldn't bother with laminating. Lots of work and potential problems later and that white oak would be better put to use on some fine woodworking project.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everybody for the responses. Found out last night that the white oak in question has been in my FIL's lumber rack for about 12 years. Is that going to make a difference.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 09:00 PM
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That would be better as far as stability. If it hasn't stabilized by now it never will. It may have also hardened which will make it a little harder to machine and drive screws into. Also check it for flatness. If it didn't stay flat while drying it will need to be flattened before you try to laminate it together. That will require a jointer and planer and you could lose quite a bit of thickness getting it flat.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 07:36 AM
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I suggest Cypress, not treated wood. Use Titebond 3 glue, and outdoor wood screws in predrilled holes. Some treated wood is not smart to expose one's self to, others not so much. Arsenic (the "A" of CCA) is an accumulative toxin and once you get it in your system it stays and if you get enough of it you become a "former woodworker". Charles is right - don't waste white oak on this project - there will be better projects for that!
Also, Gorilla Glue is really strong, but can expand to misalign joinery - but this can be designed around. Good luck!

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