Where Can I Find That Jig? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Default Where Can I Find That Jig?

I have read any number of descriptions of the resawing jig that seems to be so popular for the band saw but can't seem to find a picture of it.

Jerry
Colorado City, TX
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 10:12 PM
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Jerry,
Here is one a bit fancier than mine. JIG
Mine is made from a 2X6 and is taller where it meets the board. Cut in an "L" shape with the tall leg about 5" and the back leg about 3". I simply clamp it where they show bolts to adjust theirs.
I like making jigs, but this one is a bit much.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

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Last edited by Gene Howe; 05-20-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:25 AM
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 04:42 AM
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My table saws wouldn't mind at all if I picked up a band saw and one of these jigs.

The truth is I didn't know what you meant by 're-sawing jig'. Since Gene was kind enough to share a link to an example, I was able to pick up a new term today. For that I thank you both.

I find myself curios as to how long a particular cut would/should take. It just seems like using this approach to mill 2 x 4 lumber into 3.5" wide planks of desired thicknesses would be significantly slower than doing the same on a TS. I would assume that the kerf on a bandsaw is smaller, perhaps even half that of the average circular saw.

I can tell you for a fact that my 10" (15amp) TS units don't care much at all for the load required to this cut in a single pass. I have been thinking about trying a 'real' ripping blade (ie huge gullet, less teeth) as the cut just feels like it is too much using combo blades in the 32 to 40 tooth range.

While I do have getting a band saw on my list of wants, it is more for being able to make abstract bandsaw boxes and other more traditional applications for the unit (cutting pipe, etc).

I'm curious if any other users here have used 12" table saws for this kind of cutting and if their results were significantly better.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 08:43 AM
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Bill,
If you are ever down in the south Everett area, I can show you my band saw.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 09:50 AM
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Bill. I've often done resawing with a 10" TS. I use a carbide 24 tooth thin kerf ripping blade. My saw is only rated at 1.25 HP, but lots of torque.
I just saw half way through the width and turn it end for end and complete the cut.
I can only get through maybe a 5 1/2 wide piece this way. But, my band saw only cuts 6" deep, anyway.
I'd rather do it with a band saw, though. Safer, I think.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 01:49 PM
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Gene, safer maybe, but (at least for me with my bargain basement band saw, an old Ryobi BS900) much less reliable. I have done everything I can to minimize the drift, but I still get much more drift than I like. I will always use my table saw over my band saw for that reason.

FWIW, my table saw is also a low end tool (a Skil 3400), but it is 1000% more reliable at making straight cuts every time.

Maybe some day, if I get a decent band saw, then I will try again and maybe change my preferred tool.

Last edited by Chris Curl; 05-21-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 04:37 PM
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Pragmatism is good. Whatever works for you is good. It just scares me every time I do it....but I still do it.
I use feather boards and a pusher and I still get the jitters.
My little 11" Shopsmith band saw hasn't got the capacity I'd like but, it does a good, albeit little, job. With a silicone carbide 1/2", 3TPI blade, it'll handle nearly 6" and that's maximum space under the top guides. BTW, that blade is one of the few I have that does not drift. (luckily!)
I've done the fence method, find the drift angle and all that. Just takes way too much fiddling around. Slapping on the "L" jig and clamping it down is much quicker and IMO, just as accurate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Gene, safer maybe, but (at least for me with my bargain basement band saw, an old Ryobi BS900) much less reliable. I have done everything I can to minimize the drift, but I still get much more drift than I like. I will always use my table saw over my band saw for that reason.

FWIW, my table saw is also a low end tool (a Skil 3400), but it is 1000% more reliable at making straight cuts every time.

Maybe some day, if I get a decent band saw, then I will try again and maybe change my preferred tool.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

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Last edited by Gene Howe; 05-21-2012 at 04:41 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwl7532 View Post
Bill,
If you are ever down in the south Everett area, I can show you my band saw.
Saturdays are best.
I has been only recently that you added your city to your tag line! It would be fun to hook up some time. How far off of the bus lines are ya?

wbh1963 is flowing with the grain in Arlington, Washington, USA

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
Bill. I've often done resawing with a 10" TS. I use a carbide 24 tooth thin kerf ripping blade. My saw is only rated at 1.25 HP, but lots of torque.
I just saw half way through the width and turn it end for end and complete the cut.
I can only get through maybe a 5 1/2 wide piece this way. But, my band saw only cuts 6" deep, anyway.
I'd rather do it with a band saw, though. Safer, I think.
Thanks for the input Gene. I have been trying to get the cheap side of my brain to agree that I really should invest in a 'real rip blade'....

I would like to know more about why you are more comfortable with a bandsaw in this application.

On both the TS and RAS I figure out methods to keep my hands 8" or better away from that spinning steel thing... That usually means ripping stock before cross cutting it into shorter lengths.

I'm also a huge fan of jigs that create a feathering tunnel over the blade area. They guide it where I want the wood to go and create a barrier between my flesh and the flesh ripping blade.

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