Kreg Miter Gauge vs. Incra Miter Gauge - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default Kreg Miter Gauge vs. Incra Miter Gauge

I have the Incra V27 Miter Gauge and recently I needed to cut six parts for a segmented. Each cut was supposed to be 30 degrees. Previous to the project I had calibrated the miter gauge as best I could and when cutting picture frames the joints were tight and I was satisfied that the calibration was pretty close to being correct. However, when the six parts that were cut at 30 degrees and put together, the fit revealed that error still existed in my callibration attempt, the error was slight, but it was still there.

I am now looking at the Kreg miter gauge and the propagande says that the calibration is done at the factory. I'm wondering if anybody out there has any experience with this tool that would indicate it to be superior to the Incra product. An error of .001" out of square would become .012" after six cut and that is an very unexceptable error.

Right now, my remedy is to glue up two halfs of three parts per half which creates two halfs, one that is done, the TS is used to just kiss the the exposed edges that are to be glued together, and this eliminates the slight error, but it seems to me that having the gauge properly calibrated would eliminate the need to use the TS to clean up the error.

Jerry
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 08:33 PM
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I was referred to the Osborne gage, and its worth a look in my opinion

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 06:26 PM
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Jerry,don't blame your mitre guage! Before you start,did you set up your guage with your saw bench? ,was your timber firmly held aginst the guage fence? When we cut our segments the timber is clamped against the fence.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 02:08 AM
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Jerry,
I have been using the Kreg miter gauge with no problems. You do need to be sure to use the end stop to be sure all the parts are the same length and to clamp them to the gauge.

I also have a board attached on the front of the fence that has sandpaper on its forward face.

Browne
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 04:58 AM
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There's a cool video on Youtube showing how to properly calibrate a Mitre Gauge by cutting exactly what you want. He maintains that by getting the six sides cut and then fitting exactly, the Mitre Gauge will be spot on.

So you've only started the process, just continue until you're spot on. Don't change the Mitre Gauge.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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In regard to Brian's response, the answer is yes, I went through the drill as best I could and as I stated, the 45 degree cuts indicated that the gauge was dead on and then error appeared after the 30 degree cuts were attempted.

Jerry

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 05-29-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Browne,

How do you know that the board with the sand paper on it is perfectly flat and that the surface of the sand paper is parallel to the fence on the miter gauge, any error here would off set the advantages it seems to me, but the acid test is how the cuts turn out and if they turn out to your satisfaction then it sounds like it works for you.

Jerry
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 10:25 AM
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It has been my experience that any angle cut will never be as perfect as one hopes for irregardless of the method or care used. I make my cut as close as possible and then sand the joints to get the fit just right before gluing.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 09:58 AM
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Jerry,

I first ran the board through a planer and then checked for variations in thickness with a digital caliper, much easier on the eyes! After applying the pressure sensitive sandpaper, I make a 90 degree across a board that has been joined on two sides. One joined edge is placed against the miter gauge and the cut made. The wider the board the better. Flip one of the boards away from you and push the cut edges together. The joined edges should be straight. If they are not, then you need to index the scale by one half of the amount of the angle of the edges.

Browne
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