Joinery with thin wood - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 12:50 PM
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The Freud SBOX8 table saw blades are designed for cutting 1/4 or 3/8" square bottomed, and relatively chip free, box joints using a table saw. They work very well, but on plywood I would also make sure there is a zero clearance fence against the back side and a sacrificial board on the front side when using it for plywood.

The Ibox jig is now listed on Amazon but is not in stock yet. At $126.43 I think it's a very good price and hope they will be in stock soon. Save this link if you are interested, because it doesn't show yet in the searches.

Amazon.com: INCRA I-BOX Jig for Box Joints: Home Improvement


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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:17 PM
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Smile Rabbets are good

Rabbet joints work very well with quarter inch plywood. Make the groove 1/8 inch. Glue. Brace tightly while it dries. No nails required. Putting the rabbets on every edge maximizes the glue surface.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:58 PM
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I like miter joints on plywood boxes. The solid wood ones get the box joints. The miter joint eliminates the plywood end grain which I don't like showing on a box.

On small boxes, I miter the corners cut a rabbit for the bottom, and lay them flat on the workbench outside face up with the corners butted together and against a straight edge along the top edge. Then tape the joints together ,turn them over put glue in the joints and insert the bottom in the rabet (no glue), then roll it up around the bottom panel. Tape the last joint and check for square. No clamps needed, just set a side to dry.

I have found the miter joint has a lot of glue area and is very strong.

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 01:09 PM
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 01:53 PM
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I like using the incra IBox jig with the Freud box joint cutter set (XBOx8). Lots of good options already presented. The jig is $130 or so, the blade is just under $100. Not cheap, but then good ain't cheap and cheap ain't good. You could use your dado set and make a jig--but that's fraught with its own issues.

I bought these for making a bunch of drawers of half inch Baltic Birch ply. In figuring that out, I came to see that blades are not necessarily 1/8th, and a stack of blades might be an odd dimension, and that cheaper dado sets might not produce a flat bottom. Given that, I think the IBox jig is a very sensible tool that adjusts to the stack size and makes box joints easier.

I also think that if I were going to make quarter inch thick boxes, I'd want to make it out of resawed, thicknessed hardwood.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 04:34 PM
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I like using the incra IBox jig with the Freud box joint cutter set (XBOx8). Lots of good options already presented. The jig is $130 or so, the blade is just under $100. Not cheap, but then good ain't cheap and cheap ain't good. You could use your dado set and make a jig--but that's fraught with its own issues.

I bought these for making a bunch of drawers of half inch Baltic Birch ply. In figuring that out, I came to see that blades are not necessarily 1/8th, and a stack of blades might be an odd dimension, and that cheaper dado sets might not produce a flat bottom. Given that, I think the IBox jig is a very sensible tool that adjusts to the stack size and makes box joints easier.

I also think that if I were going to make quarter inch thick boxes, I'd want to make it out of resawed, thicknessed hardwood.
I use the Freud Box Cutter blade for most of my box joints, or the dado set I had sharpened w/flat top cutters for the ones wider than 3/8". I make aome 3/4" wide. in 3/4" thick stock.

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