Garage/Workshop Cooling - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 10:17 AM
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I use a side draft cooler in my workshop in the Mojave. 107 here yesterday and the cooler only drops temps by 20-25 degrees, so it is still warm inside. I have partially insulated the shed, especially the ceiling, which helps a little, but I think full insulation would really make the difference I also lined the shed walls first with aluminum coated bubble wrap before putting in the block foam insulation I used. Do the insulating BEFORE you put up shelves and cabinets, it is a massive chore to go back to insulate later. I had water just outside the workshop (shed) so it was easy to run 1/4 inch copper line to the cooler. Be sure to get a flaring tool for the copper fittings or they can easily break loose and spill a lot of expensive water before you notice. Every exterior faucet has cut off valves at the base, same with the cooler source. Amazing how often these puppies break. Find a store where you can get schedule 80 pipe for any runs above ground--all it takes is one freezing night to have your pipes burst. I also used a threaded T at the lowest point in the 1/4 inch run. Water goes straight through from source, into the T, with a 1/4 fitting on the other side. The third outlet has a threaded stopper that lets me drain the system before winter. Finally, I also have a fan that directs some of the cool air to the far reaches of the shop, which is where I have my workbench.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 04:55 PM
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I live in Phoenix, AZ. Summers get real hot (100+). Would welcome any ideas on how to cool down my garage/workshop so that I can get some work done in the summer months. Central airconditioning is not an option.
I would like to put my 2 cents in here if I may I live in Winnemucca, NV and it runs right around 100 to 100+ and I am using a swamp cooler in a 12x20 shop with cast iron table saw, band saw and jointer and no rust, works great. Just stuck it in a window.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 07:26 PM
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I would like to put my 2 cents in here if I may I live in Winnemucca, NV and it runs right around 100 to 100+ and I am using a swamp cooler in a 12x20 shop with cast iron table saw, band saw and jointer and no rust, works great. Just stuck it in a window.
And I'm betting Roger Miller's guitar strings didn't rust while in Winnemucca.

Keep a heads up on dew point temperature and all will be OK.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 08:41 PM
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I would like to put my 2 cents in here if I may I live in Winnemucca, NV and it runs right around 100 to 100+ and I am using a swamp cooler in a 12x20 shop with cast iron table saw, band saw and jointer and no rust, works great. Just stuck it in a window.

welcome to the forum, Rodger.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Seems to be the best solution for me so far. Thanks, I'll be looking into it.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 09:18 PM
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The first money I would spend would be on as much insulation your walls and ceiling can handle. Then with the size of your shop, it should keep it usable. I am fortunate to have 10" walls and have that much insulation in them. I have 16" to 20" in the ceiling. In the summer when it reaches 95 degrees the shop will stay a comfy 75 degrees with a small window AC unit. In the winter I run a 110 volt ceramic heater that keeps the shop at 70 dehrees even when it gets down to 0 degrees. The shop is 480 sq ft. That is the benefit of having plenty of insulation.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 07:48 AM
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Joe, I live in LA where we not only get the heat but huge amounts of humidity (LA=Lower Alabama). We have been using the portable units on wheels on our job sites for years. These are the ones that Scott suggested, that discharge through a 4" hose. We solved the sawdust problem by building a filter box for the intake. it is a frame covered with blue filter cloth. The cloth is held in place by staples and can be easily changed when dirty. You can also prolong the life of the cloth if you periodically blow it clean with a leaf blower from the back side.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 10:15 AM
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I suggest you to load some of your gears and put it on a backpack. Google finest natural/nature pools in America. Pick your best bet and prepare yourself for a couple of miles hike. Of course, you should have the bucks for it. If you reach your destination or the pool you chose, for sure you’ll never know what hot means. Opps! Am I on the wrong thread? My mind came up with a summer getaway.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 11:30 AM
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Joe, I live in LA where we not only get the heat but huge amounts of humidity (LA=Lower Alabama). We have been using the portable units on wheels on our job sites for years. These are the ones that Scott suggested, that discharge through a 4" hose. We solved the sawdust problem by building a filter box for the intake. it is a frame covered with blue filter cloth. The cloth is held in place by staples and can be easily changed when dirty. You can also prolong the life of the cloth if you periodically blow it clean with a leaf blower from the back side.
Troy-

That was actually a fantastic idea! I wish we had such on our jobsites.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by joevm View Post
I live in Phoenix, AZ. Summers get real hot (100+). Would welcome any ideas on how to cool down my garage/workshop so that I can get some work done in the summer months. Central airconditioning is not an option.
Why not opt for a regular air conditioner.You could mount it in a wall,

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