Rockwell Band Saw Vibration 28-243 - Router Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Default Rockwell Band Saw Vibration 28-243

Have googled and checked forums RE tuneups etc. Taken off belt - ran motor- pretty smooth. No play in motor shaft, lower wheel nice and tight. Upper wheel has some rattle or play in the shaft where it is pressed into the tensioning bracket. I dont think this is good, but - - - -anyone familiar with this critter? I know its a very popular basic design. I will probably replace the tires with urethane in the future but I dont "think" they are the problem. Any ideas? I have been bandsaw less for 20 years years, trying to get back into the swing. Thanks in advance!!!
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 03:23 PM
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With no belt or blade attached, and being sure the bearings are in good shape, turn the wheels and mark the bottom when they stop. Do it several times. That's the heavy side.
I used large paper clamps on a saw I had to balance the wheels. Others drill out excess wheel metal, but I don't recommend it. Take the wire grips off the clamps.

Are the tires truly round? That will create vibrations.
How about the pulleys? Are they true, and not sloppy on the shafts?
Old belts will also be a nuisance.

Picture of the paper clamps.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
With no belt or blade attached, and being sure the bearings are in good shape, turn the wheels and mark the bottom when they stop. Do it several times. That's the heavy side.
I used large paper clamps on a saw I had to balance the wheels. Others drill out excess wheel metal, but I don't recommend it. Take the wire grips off the clamps.

Are the tires truly round? That will create vibrations.
How about the pulleys? Are they true, and not sloppy on the shafts?
Old belts will also be a nuisance.
So what you were trying to say in the first section... Let me get this straight. Take off the blade and spin the wheel. Mark the bottom of where it stops. Spin again. If the mark is still on the bottom, add a clip to the top of the wheel. Spin again. Note where it stops. Repeat until it stops at random spots instead of at the same stop. Bottom wheel would be without the drive belt on the pulley...

Is that what you were saying?

Sounded like the OP described play in the upper wheel "in the shaft where it is pressed into the tensioning bracket"... which might be Delta BEARING Part Number: 920-04-010-7273or Delta HINGE Part Number: 426-02-059-0001, depending where the play is. The bearing is what the wheel shaft rides in. The Hinge is what the back of the shaft fits into and it then attaches to the sliding bracket of the adjuster.

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 09-21-2012 at 04:46 PM.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Default Shake - Rock -Roll ---L E S S but-

Thanks everybody - I have tried the wheel balance suggestion and top wheel was heavy on one side, put on the clip, now I'm getting random stopping points. OK there I guess. Bottom wheel gave me erratic stopping points so I guess its close enough.

Mike - Thanks for blow up - Need to figure out how to save it or print it now!! ANYWAY, the fit between No. 21 and No 22 in the upper wheel assmbly is a loose and wobbly fit, maybe a 1/16 of wiggle. Doesnt seem right but it does work under a compressing action from the blade tension. I "think" its a press fit since I cant find a snap ring without disassembling the whole thing.

Double check on the pulley alignment, out a 1/4 inch. Put belt on and a lot of vibration now gone in bottom wheel assembly. Next stop top wheel with blade and see what happens then.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 06:22 PM
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Thanks everybody - I have tried the wheel balance suggestion and top wheel was heavy on one side, put on the clip, now I'm getting random stopping points. OK there I guess. Bottom wheel gave me erratic stopping points so I guess its close enough.

Mike - Thanks for blow up - Need to figure out how to save it or print it now!! ANYWAY, the fit between No. 21 and No 22 in the upper wheel assmbly is a loose and wobbly fit, maybe a 1/16 of wiggle. Doesnt seem right but it does work under a compressing action from the blade tension. I "think" its a press fit since I cant find a snap ring without disassembling the whole thing.

Double check on the pulley alignment, out a 1/4 inch. Put belt on and a lot of vibration now gone in bottom wheel assembly. Next stop top wheel with blade and see what happens then.
Right click, Save Image as.

Between 21 (shaft) and 22 (hinge), I don't see anything holding them together, let alone a c-clip. Of the two, I think the hinge would wear first and the shaft is most probably harder metal. Taking it apart would tell you which... and to replace either, that assembly would have to be apart anyways.

On balancing the wheel... I'm thinking the clips are a temporary fix to find out just how much it is out of balance and where. For permanent, easier than welding would be weight all the clips. Go to a tire shop and buy a small amout of custom wheel weight tape. Measure it and cut. Tape it and temporarily tape it center mass of where the clips where. Adjust t get it right, then pull the protective layer off the tape and set it permanently.

Could also be a welded weight or epoxied. Whatever.

Curious what you find.

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 09-21-2012 at 06:27 PM.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I have a project - first light am 9/22!! Back in touch later - Thanks all
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 01:46 PM
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This might add up a little on your knowledge regarding band saw tune up: How to Set Up a Bandsaw - Fine Woodworking Article
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 02:36 PM
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Here's a link to the parts list download.

HTH,
Bill
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:53 AM
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So what you were trying to say in the first section... Let me get this straight. Take off the blade and spin the wheel. Mark the bottom of where it stops. Spin again. If the mark is still on the bottom, add a clip to the top of the wheel. Spin again. Note where it stops. Repeat until it stops at random spots instead of at the same stop. Bottom wheel would be without the drive belt on the pulley...

Is that what you were saying?]
Yep. That's it.

The tensioning hinge can become loose from over tensioning the blade. Even bent.
It's a replaceable part. Itura makes a heavier one, but I've never had the need for one.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default More Piddling

Well, been several days, here a slight update - Taking the handles off the bulldog clips before bump testing it was a great idea. Too bad I didnt listen. No major damage done to saw or myself. Realigned pulleys and put belt back on with under tension. Results: SMoooooooth. Decided to put a little tension on belt and realign, result: VvvvviiiiBBBrration again. What the heck? Anyway: I'm waiting on some new poly tires which are due in a couple of days. Be back then, in the meantime, whats up with the belt tension and vibration??

Thanks for update on parts blow up. The only wobble I have (slight) is between the so called Hinge and the pin that is pressed (?) into it. The shaft wiggles a little. Good to know parts are available. Surely the shaft is harder that that pot metal casting. Anyway, thanks everybody, stay on board until parts come in!!!!!!
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