Tablesaw rip fence alignment help... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Default Tablesaw rip fence alignment help...

Hi Forum, I have a Craftsman model 113.299410 table saw and have never been happy with the rip fence alignment. I have gone through the manual to align the rails, fence, etc. but I still get up to 1/8" misalignment when I engage the locking mechanism. I have also tried overtensioning and undertensioning the locking mechanism with no better results.

I understand that the Biesemeyer fences lock down accurately each and every time. With my stock fence on the Craftsman I go through a ritual before each rip cut measuring the desired cut from fence to blade, then measure from fence over to the far miter slot. I then transfer the fence to miter distance on the front and back of the fence, recheck the blade to fence width and then lock down the fence. If I don't do this and just lock the fence down without setting it parallel with the blade I will get a binding at some point during the cut.

Any experience with this? The aftermarket fences sound great, but, do they really make a big difference?

Thanks,
Tim
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 11:53 PM
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Hi Forum, I have a Craftsman model 113.299410 table saw and have never been happy with the rip fence alignment. I have gone through the manual to align the rails, fence, etc. but I still get up to 1/8" misalignment when I engage the locking mechanism. I have also tried overtensioning and undertensioning the locking mechanism with no better results.

I understand that the Biesemeyer fences lock down accurately each and every time. With my stock fence on the Craftsman I go through a ritual before each rip cut measuring the desired cut from fence to blade, then measure from fence over to the far miter slot. I then transfer the fence to miter distance on the front and back of the fence, recheck the blade to fence width and then lock down the fence. If I don't do this and just lock the fence down without setting it parallel with the blade I will get a binding at some point during the cut.

Any experience with this? The aftermarket fences sound great, but, do they really make a big difference?

Thanks,
Tim
Yes they are, and they are spendy also.

Your fence locks both front and rear. It should be solid one adjusted.

A few questions.
Is your blade parallel to your miter slots?

When you move your fence to a miter slot and push the front of the fence rearward (unlocked), is the fence parallel with the miter slot?

If so, holding the fence rearward, if you then lock the fence, does the fence move from parallel or stay?

If it moves, to the left or right?

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 11-11-2012 at 11:58 PM.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 11:59 PM
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Yes they do!
After fighting a Jet Lock fence on a 30yr old Rockwell contractor saw for far too long, I bought another saw "used" with a Biesmeyer fence.
That fence is really nice and accurate. I can set it to .001" using a dial indicator.
The Delta T2 fence has got many good reports, and for around $150.
I am going to try one of those on my contractors saw. It is like the Biesmeyer, but not so monster heavy.
There are other good fences also. Others would know I am sure.

Don
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 02:10 AM
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Yes they do!
After fighting a Jet Lock fence on a 30yr old Rockwell contractor saw for far too long, I bought another saw "used" with a Biesmeyer fence.
That fence is really nice and accurate. I can set it to .001" using a dial indicator.
The Delta T2 fence has got many good reports, and for around $150.
I am going to try one of those on my contractors saw. It is like the Biesmeyer, but not so monster heavy.
There are other good fences also. Others would know I am sure.

Don
Hey, Don; my original equipment Delta fence is very secure when it locks down, but it does have an annoying quirk of moving slightly from where I think it's lined up to where it actually ends up as I latch it down. It's easy enough to readjust but I don't think I should have to. I must say that thankfully it doesn't have to be checked front and rear after securing it; it self aligns perfectly...just not exactly where I want it. (It's on a Delta Contractor saw)
Does the T2 lock down precisely where you set it?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 02:28 AM
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I came across this quick video...I'll try it tomorrow and see if it gives me any insight.
Table saw fence micro adjusting - YouTube
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:23 AM
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Tim,

The first question that needs to be answered is, is your blade set parallel to the mitre slot? Once that is accomplished then the fence gets adjusted to the mitre slot as well. Both are setup using a dial indicator. There are several other methods not as accurate, to perform this setup.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:58 AM
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Tim,

The first question that needs to be answered is, is your blade set parallel to the mitre slot? Once that is accomplished then the fence gets adjusted to the mitre slot as well. Both are setup using a dial indicator. There are several other methods not as accurate, to perform this setup.
I agree with Joe as I said in post 2.

I have a 3/4" x 3/4" cold rolled bar that I put in my miters that I use to quick-check and to adjust my fence.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:16 AM
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Tim,

The first thing, a belated welcome to the forum. Does the fence always have the same sort of error? (is it always closer to the blade on the back of the fence, etc) Is the error roughly the same size 20" from the blade as it is 1" from the blade?

My old ryobi had sliding fence rails, and sometimes they would not be parallell to each other. This would cause the fence to not align properly.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 AM
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"do they really make a big difference?" Yes but at what cost? Is your saw worth putting a fence on that cost more than the saw? It is a pain to set up your fence each time by measuring it but it's free.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 10:43 AM
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Hi Tim.
Yes, to all the above. Make sure the blade is aligned first, then find yourself another fence. I have a 113.298750 (with the cast iron wings) that I really like. Two mods: a linked belt to greatly reduce vibration, and a Vega fence originally made for a Powermatic saw, that I got from Craigslist for $50. The Vega fence clamps to the front tube (2" Stainless) with a nice wide stance, so it doesn't wobble at all. The other neat thing about the Vega is that it is real easy to just lift off (kinda lumpy at about 15 lbs). Just lift the locking lever, and pull straight up. Makes change-overs to cross cutting quick and easy. I just hang it on the wall behind the side of the saw. Once you get this sorted out I'm sure you will be happy with the saw. Tim in TX
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