Table Saw Miter Gauge slop - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Default Table Saw Miter Gauge slop

First let me say I really like my Ridgid R4510 saw. It does what I bought it to do and with the router table insert it's the central piece in the shop. The weak point of course is the miter gauge. Like many of the portable saws of its type there had always been some slop in the fit of the bar in the table slot. I had been biasing it clockwise to compensate but that can get old so I was looking (dreaming mostly - $$$) to replace it with something better. While looking I found a reference to a method of reducing the slop for little or no cost.

Peening the bar.

You old hats in the game will see this as nothing new but it was a revelation to me so I thought I'd pass it on in case some other newbie was in the same boat.

All you do is get a good center punch and place a few (I used 5) evenly spaced dimples on either side of the miter gauge bar. The punch will raise the surface of the steel around the dimple by a 1 or 2 thousandths with each strike. I made the raised points high enough on each side to make the bar drag just a little and then hit each one with an Arkansas stone till the drag was gone. Result, the miter gauge slop is virtually gone. I didn't make an actual measurement but I'm guessing it could be as little as 0.1 degree ... big change.

Just FYI

GCG
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 09:37 AM
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Neat idea Patrick.

Do you have a sled? Having never had one until I started working on one recently, I didn't really realize how great they are for cross cuts. When my sled is done, I will probably never use my miter gauge again.

And if you want to do cuts other than 90*, it is easy enough to enhance it to put an angled fence on it.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Neat idea Patrick.

Do you have a sled? Having never had one until I started working on one recently, I didn't really realize how great they are for cross cuts. When my sled is done, I will probably never use my miter gauge again.

And if you want to do cuts other than 90*, it is easy enough to enhance it to put an angled fence on it.
On my ever growing list.

Here's the Sketchup model I have so far. As soon as I get one of those round toit thingys I'll get it built.

GCG
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 08:48 AM
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Doesn't Rigid sell a digital miter gage and is it any better?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Yup. $89 on backorder. Still a slop issue according to many reviewers but the bar is stock 1/2" with attachable side runners for 5/8" and 3/4" table slots. In that case I would assume some aluminum foil shims would work. Heavy Duty Reynolds Aluminum Foil thickness is spec'ed at about 0.93 thousandths.

It's on my wish list.

GCG
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:48 PM
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I'm interested to read your results since I'm a digital measurment kinna' guy and also have that on my post Christmas list.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 02:16 PM
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Hello all

I have two cross-cut-sled, a large, classic, cut panels up to + / -50 cm wide and a little (which I use because much less bulky).
I put two drawings Sketchup of the small one. On the first drawing, it is equipped with his 2 stop-blocks that can go against the blade
This stop-blocks can also go right or left, the big stop-bloc is fixed with eccentric and has a fence that can cut small parts. On the second picture you can see details of the two stop blocks.
For more information, see the "lescopeaux.asso.fr"

Daniel
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GulfcoastGuy View Post
First let me say I really like my Ridgid R4510 saw. It does what I bought it to do and with the router table insert it's the central piece in the shop. The weak point of course is the miter gauge. Like many of the portable saws of its type there had always been some slop in the fit of the bar in the table slot. I had been biasing it clockwise to compensate but that can get old so I was looking (dreaming mostly - $$$) to replace it with something better. While looking I found a reference to a method of reducing the slop for little or no cost.

Peening the bar.

You old hats in the game will see this as nothing new but it was a revelation to me so I thought I'd pass it on in case some other newbie was in the same boat.

All you do is get a good center punch and place a few (I used 5) evenly spaced dimples on either side of the miter gauge bar. The punch will raise the surface of the steel around the dimple by a 1 or 2 thousandths with each strike. I made the raised points high enough on each side to make the bar drag just a little and then hit each one with an Arkansas stone till the drag was gone. Result, the miter gauge slop is virtually gone. I didn't make an actual measurement but I'm guessing it could be as little as 0.1 degree ... big change.

Just FYI

GCG
Yes, we old hats have used that method several times in our lives and I have a name for the procedure - Red Neck Knurling - acronym - RNK If you ever need a bearing to have just a little more interference fit RNK works for that too in some instances.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Neat idea Patrick.

Do you have a sled? Having never had one until I started working on one recently, I didn't really realize how great they are for cross cuts. When my sled is done, I will probably never use my miter gauge again.

And if you want to do cuts other than 90*, it is easy enough to enhance it to put an angled fence on it.
Yep, saw sleds are the way to go. I don't even know if I have my miter gauge anymore. And if I need to cut a different angle than 90, then I make a new saw sled. I always build a lot of safety factors into them too, so it's pretty much impossible to grab one, use it, and get any part of you close to the whirly parts.

And if you get a caulking gun, the type with two 'legs' holding the front on, cut the front off, bend the 'legs', drill a couple of holes thru each leg. Then you put a 2X4 from front to back on the top of the sled, drill a hole just large enough for the 'pusher' on the former caulking gun, and close to the back of the sled. Screw the former caulking gun in place, and presto, you have a cheap clamp to hold your wood.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bradleytavares View Post
I'm interested to read your results since I'm a digital measurment kinna' guy and also have that on my post Christmas list.
Well, It'll be at least after Christmas if then for me. That of course assumes that HD has restocked the web store. Since HD seems to be a single source, if they don't we're both out of luck.

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Originally Posted by SandburRanch View Post
Yes, we old hats have used that method several times in our lives and I have a name for the procedure - Red Neck Knurling - acronym - RNK If you ever need a bearing to have just a little more interference fit RNK works for that too in some instances.
Yeah, when I was reading about it, they made it sound like it'd been around since the Bronze Age. Just new to me.

GCG
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