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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Steenkin' damn computer. About 3/4ths finished with this and the computer made it all go poof.

OK, the cool this year is playing havoc with my left knee and lower leg. Even a bit of cool usually makes the knee feel like it's been whacked with a mallet. So, want to move some tools into the spare room, to provide adequate warmth (mostly for me, but glueups also), and fast access to the bathroom. Scroll saw, no problem, I already have a dust control setup planned for that. Metal working tools, with no sparking problems, again, no prob. But, I do quite a bit of work with the router in my router table, and that generates a lot of dust and sawdust, which would be a problem.

If I were just routing straight lines, no prob, wouldn't bother asking. I'd just fix something like in photo one, and something under to catch the dust it sends into my lap.
But most of my routing is more like the piece on the left in photo two (that is one of my masters for my wooden figure banks, it is nailed to the piece being routed),
or the piece in photo three (carrier for plastic bags, lets you carry them witout the handles cutting into your fingers - feel free to copy the design if you want).
And, yes, I know the pictures suck, and plan on getting another, better, camera as soon as I can.

I've been doing a lot of searching, and so far haven't found anything that even remotely covers what I'm looking for. Hence the question. I've got a 15 1/2" monster truck bank designed for the grandson, and will need to rout on the masters for it (ten separate if I got the numbers right), and then will be doing routing on each individual piece also. Which means either a lot of time in a cold shop, or a workable dust control in the house. Possibly I could use a regular dust collection thingie for the outside, but definitely not for routing the inside edges.

Any ideas or pictures would be very welcome. And I'm not interested in buying more than I have to, so am not buying anything I can't make. The shop rig does send most of it to the left rear, so I've thought about a wide intake, but don't think there would be much air pickup with a big opening. Probably better than nothing tho.

Appreciate any help I can get.
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Last edited by JOAT; 12-23-2012 at 10:51 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 07:47 AM
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Theo,

This idea might work, I use this flex hose with my router table and drill press and works great.
Here is a link, scroll up to the "stay put hose". Dust Collection Hose
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 07:54 AM
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Theo, I agree with Bob about using this type of hose, I bought the one shown here: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0&site=ROCKLER

Just build an arm to support it over your table.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 09:55 AM
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Hi Theo,
The above suggestions are great. They require spending some dough, though. I rigged my 5 gal. shop vac to a brush fitting, that I removed the brush part from, and screwed the fitting down at the back of the router fence, right behind the bit. It's just a 1-1/4" hose, but the shop vac does a good job for that one fitting.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 10:13 AM
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Tim, the hose is only $10 and can be easily moved from tool to tool as needed.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 10:32 AM
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Wrap a heating pad around your knee.

  • Accident free since 10/27/12 at 3:58 pm.
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  • ...it happened in Everett, WA USA
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 10:50 AM
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Theo, necking the intake down going to your vac will increase velocity but will decrease overall air flow. Opening it up will increase airflow but decrease velocity and if you go too wide slow it it down to the point that it will become ineffective. You need a good air volume to float the particles in the airstream to the vac. If you look at some of the pickups commercially available you'll see that they flare out at the openings.

With that said, no matter what you do you'll never capture 100%. I can appreciate your issue with your leg. I'm scheduled for a knee replacement in April. To insure that none of the errant dust makes in into the rest of the house you would need to seal off any air returning to your furnace and keep the room at negative pressure by venting air to the outside so that air would be sucked in from the rest of the house and then out.

If you can work at the table sitting down have you considered closing it in and putting one of those small electric heaters under to keep your legs warm?

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 12:03 PM
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The only thing I can think of, is to enclose the table underneath to capture the dust thrown downward. The dust from the top can be directed by building walls on three sides. Do a test to see where the vacuum hose will be best placed.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 01:06 PM
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It sounds to me as though you might save a lot of trouble and time as well as compfort if you were to invest in a small heater such as the radiant heater sold by Lee Valley Tools
Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement

These heaters warm YOU and the air in the shop. I have two in my garage. They are perfectly safe and do the job very well. I'm sure this solution is easier than moving your shop indoors for the season.

"Even bad decisions make good stories"

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys:
My present shop heater puts out sufficient heat, but either sitting out there until it warms up to shirtsleeve temps, or shuffling between the shop and the house, and back again, is just not on my to do list.
The knee seems to relate more to outside temp, rather than inside. Strange that. I did find that wrapping it in a towel secured with a 1" spring clamp when I go to bed does seem to make a bit of a favorable difference.

As far as the dust control goes:
My masters are 1" thick (two pieces of 1/2" plywood glued together). Then the piece to be routed will be either 1/2" or 3/4". Add to that the nails that I hold them together with sticking out maybe 1/8" and you're talkin 2". Straight pieces would not be a problem. But I usually have a lot of curves and/or odd angles on the pieces I rout, plus some of them are routed inside. I think I'd have to have suction suitable for pulling nails before I could come up with anything suitable for dust collection. So, for not at least, I'll be leaving my routing for the shop. Ah well, I'll keep thinking about it, any may come up with something one day.
Thanks again, and Happy New Year.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Fawkahwe tribal police SWAT Team
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
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