12" Belsaw Planer 910 or 912 - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Default 12" Belsaw Planer 910 or 912

I'm in the process of trying to get my Belsaw planer running and need some electrical help from fellow owners or electrical /motor experts. See attached pics.

The problem is- wire it for 115 or 230 volt? I PREFER 230V The motor is a 2HP Furnas with a tag that states the Amperage is 22.8/11.4 respectively. A wiring diagream on the motor tag staes red, red & blue tied to a black wire (to the starter box) and yellow, black & white to a white wire (to the stater box) and lastly a green ground to the box for both the 115 & the 230. Now take a look @ the starter box and the plug wire end coming out is a 115 configuration. That plugs into a matching, supplied extension cord which has a 230 volt plug end.
My assumption , like a DA, was just tie my 230V 12/2 shop wire into te new receptacle and hit the switch. That particular wire goes back to my main panel and tied to a 15A 230V breaker. I wired it as 2-pole white & black.
Went back in and hit the power button. The planer ran a second and tripped the breaker. Off to my electrician @ Home Depot . He was'nt in. So I got a 20A 230V and wired it in. Hit the on button & nothing. Took a real close look @ everything and found the short cord out of the box was a 115V plug end. The previous owner had replaced the extention cord end with a 230V end.
Long story from a DA. Should of chked it all out 1st.
Please advise.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 11:33 AM
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Del, is there a wiring diagram on the motor or in the cover where the wires are on the motor? I do believe you have to change the configuration of the wires at the motor to go from 115 volt to 220 volt. I found this maybe it will help.
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Last edited by RStaron; 12-31-2012 at 11:57 AM. Reason: adding diagrams
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RStaron View Post
Del, is there a wiring diagram on the motor or in the cover where the wires are on the motor? I do believe you have to change the configuration of the wires at the motor to go from 115 volt to 220 volt. I found this maybe it will help.
I had the same problem with my Shopsmith 10ER when I changed wire. I had to switch the wire configuration.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Typically on alternate voltage machines you would hust connect the wires to different posts outside the motor. I hate the thout of opening the motor. Was that what you were suggesting RStaron?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 11:53 AM
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Looking at picture #1 you are hooked up for 120 volts and said you ran it on 230 volts, I don't know how long a short time is but my guess is you took out the capacitor or burned up the motor (maybe just the starting winding)
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CabinetMaker View Post
I'm in the process of trying to get my Belsaw planer running and need some electrical help from fellow owners or electrical /motor experts. See attached pics.

The problem is- wire it for 115 or 230 volt? I PREFER 230V The motor is a 2HP Furnas with a tag that states the Amperage is 22.8/11.4 respectively. A wiring diagream on the motor tag staes red, red & blue tied to a black wire (to the starter box) and yellow, black & white to a white wire (to the stater box) and lastly a green ground to the box for both the 115 & the 230. Now take a look @ the starter box and the plug wire end coming out is a 115 configuration. That plugs into a matching, supplied extension cord which has a 230 volt plug end.
My assumption , like a DA, was just tie my 230V 12/2 shop wire into te new receptacle and hit the switch. That particular wire goes back to my main panel and tied to a 15A 230V breaker. I wired it as 2-pole white & black.
Went back in and hit the power button. The planer ran a second and tripped the breaker. Off to my electrician @ Home Depot . He was'nt in. So I got a 20A 230V and wired it in. Hit the on button & nothing. Took a real close look @ everything and found the short cord out of the box was a 115V plug end. The previous owner had replaced the extention cord end with a 230V end.
Long story from a DA. Should of chked it all out 1st.
Please advise.
Dell, In the motor photo I can see the motor hook-up label on the far right, this shows the correct hook-up for 115v and 220v color codes. Check it very carefully, hopefully you did not damage the motor.

A great new year to all.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 02:55 PM
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Are you plugging into a properly installed 220v source?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 04:26 PM
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Thanks guys. Typically on alternate voltage machines you would hust connect the wires to different posts outside the motor. I hate the thout of opening the motor. Was that what you were suggesting RStaron?
Del, you only need to open what you are showing in you're first picture. This is where all the hookups are. If you're motor has a burnt smell to it then you might have burned it up. When you get it connected properly and it doesn't work you may have to take it to a motor rebuilder to have it checked out.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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You guys are great, no burnt motor smell but you know murphys' law. Rresponding to all
The planer ran for a second & tripped off, second try ran for a second & tripped off. That tells me(maybe no harm to thhe motor the breaker tripped) Being the DA that I am sometimes I was bent on getting a 230V 20 A breaker so I did. It was properly wired @ the panel end for both breakers. Pushed the button for a second on the 20A a couple times & nothing . No motor smells or smoke though. Could have killed it. I'm gonna hope it did'nt
It was'nt until I unplgged the short cord out of the switch box to the long cord to the receptacle. Thats when I saw the 155V end on the short plug (see pic). Your right guys on the motor hookup label. The 230V single line diagram shows Blue to L1/red, orange, white to Ins.???? /& Yellow, Black to L2. So if I use this configuration, does that take them to the manual switch box?? It just does'nt look like the switch box is set up for 230V or am I wrong???
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:47 AM
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You guys are great, no burnt motor smell but you know murphys' law. Rresponding to all
The planer ran for a second & tripped off, second try ran for a second & tripped off. That tells me(maybe no harm to thhe motor the breaker tripped) Being the DA that I am sometimes I was bent on getting a 230V 20 A breaker so I did. It was properly wired @ the panel end for both breakers. Pushed the button for a second on the 20A a couple times & nothing . No motor smells or smoke though. Could have killed it. I'm gonna hope it did'nt
It was'nt until I unplgged the short cord out of the switch box to the long cord to the receptacle. Thats when I saw the 155V end on the short plug (see pic). Your right guys on the motor hookup label. The 230V single line diagram shows Blue to L1/red, orange, white to Ins.???? /& Yellow, Black to L2. So if I use this configuration, does that take them to the manual switch box?? It just does'nt look like the switch box is set up for 230V or am I wrong???
The switch breaks both L1 and L2, whether wired for 120 or 240. In the first picture in your first post, the motor is definitely wired for 120V operation. In the wiring diagram for 240V, the three wires in the middle group are justed wire nutted to each other and do not connect to anything else! I can't read the colors in your picture, so red, orange, and white? I can't see any purpose for the short/long cords except possibly just an additional means of disconnect. Too many orange wires there without being able to see where they all go to be sure!

When a circuit is overloaded, the weak link will fail first. Normally(hopefully) that is the circuit breaker. By increasing it to 20A, it may no longer have been the weak link. In that case, something in the motor probably opened instead. May have failed too quickly for there to be any burned smell!

The 3 motor leads that go to L1 and L2 in the 240 diagram should all have continuity to one of the other three, although 1 of them will have the start/run cap in series with it. If any of the three are totally open, the motor is bad!

I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed.

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Last edited by Dmeadows; 01-02-2013 at 09:52 AM.
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