I am not a beginner with woodworking but I am with my OWN shop. My boss has all Grizzley tools,Kreg clamp table,shaper, cabinet makers table saw,planer,jointer etc. I have just started my own shop. Kreg router table,dewalt router, dewalt table saw, dewalt radial miter, home made cross-cut sled for TS,no fancy squares just a swanson tri-square,factory dewalt baldes. All bought new in last 6 months... I have got my miter saw down to .002 from square (luck) and my TS is .017 on my cross-cut sled.I do not have the big fancy Kreg clamp table im use to and am forced to use workbench and clamps... I do not Yet have the full Kreg pocket hole setup but just the mini Kreg.
Ok now you see what im working with....I am making a end table...Using 3 face frames for the front and 2 sides. I planned my stock (red oak) to 3/4". ripped to 2"
I have went threw prolly 50' of stock and got nothing but a headache. I clamp my boards off of straight edge around my square pocket drill them... i have came out with either an un square frame, uneven face, or it pulls them together so much it bows as if my bevel on my TS is off but i have checked it 100 times and it looks to be dead on....
I have ben using my Kreg router table as jointer but that does not help with the ends of the boards.... im so lost at this point...PLEASE HELP!!!!
I'm assuming you tuned your miter saw and table saw right? On your crosscut sled fence, take a 0.017" feeler gauge, put it against your fence on the end that is shy. put a block against it. Clamp the block. Remove the screws on the end of the fence. Move the fence to the block. Put screws in new holes to secure it. That should get it within 0.002 of zero.
Then check it with a 5-cut method. If you don't know what that is ask and I'll post. With that you can dial in your sled fence.
My work prep is done with my table saw, then miter saw. Actually, any piece that is too long a cut for my compound sliding miter saw, is done on the Radial Arm Saw, then if longer, the table saw. I do more on my table saw if I'm playing or practicing. On a table saw you have blade to miter and fence to miter... then blade to table angle. On a radial arm saw and miter saw you have blade to fence angle and blade to table angle.
So my face stiles and rails are ripped on my table saw. My Glue edges for glue ups, same. Etc. I jointer for cabinetry on the table saw. I cut to length on the miter saw or in a sled... Whichever I'm in the mood for or is gong to be faster in the long run. I use stops for my lengths. I sometime use my router table to jointer cabinets pieces... again depending on my mood.
I check my bevel and square with a speed square or combo square. I usually have a few carpenter squares around. If in doubt I have a wixey digital angle meter. Check your equipment. If good, use them to check square of the cut work. If square, then the joinery...
Pocket Hole Joinery- If you're doing it and care about tight joints and square... use clamps to hold the work together during drilling and screwing. Also use blocks clamped in to hold it in square during that drilling and screwing. I put the faces down while joining it together, so the face surfaces line up. Past experience tells me that if I don't use lots on clamps, I get loose pocket joints, faces that the surfaces don't line up well and are not square.
Higher end faces, I now do other joining techniques.
None of that is going to matter if your bevel is off when you cut, as you suspect. Another way I check that is very saw I have, I have a machined steel block there near it. I can set that block against the blade and see if it's at 90.