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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Default planer board snipe

planer board snipe-delta td 305 12.5 planer.only used maybe 6 times. boards different lengths does not matter.snipes from the infeed side. i have adjusted in and out feeds and still get board snipe. i have noticed that the stainless plate bed underneath blade has some down motion. is that the problem? when i feed board the back of the board raises- so i press down to stay level-but no change. should i make a sled ? if so, a simple plan for a sled.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 08:34 AM
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A snipe is a fact of life with every planer I have used. I now just make the piece longer and cut off the end.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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yes sounds good but if i do not have much board length to loose?
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 10:14 AM
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Henry, pushing down on the back end of the board is what you don't want to do. That will cause snipe. Lifting the back end slightly should help. If you have more than one board to plane to the same thickness, running them end to end will eliminate snipe on all but the beginning of the first and end of the last. Extended infeed and outfeed support will also reduce snipe. There is much published info on this subject. A quick google search on "reducing planer snipe" should yield more info than you will likely want to read!

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Last edited by Dmeadows; 01-14-2013 at 10:20 AM.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 10:29 AM
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A snipe is a fact of life wit ch every planer I have used. I now just make the piece longer and cut off the end.
Art,
As shown earlier on this forum, can't recall where, but snipe can be elimated in most cases by supporting the workpiece so it does not drop down as comes off of the the first roller
as the workpiece finishes its travel throught the planer. I have a Delta planer and if I don't support the workpiece as described above, I will get snipe every time in boards longer than about 18". But therer is zero snipe when those same boards are supported by hand as decribed above. I em pretty sure that you are aware of this of course, and what you say about every planer having the problem is probably true due to the way the workpieces are moved through any planer. Understanding the way the the front and rear rollers work is the key to understanding snipe with a planer. I only became aware of this through this formum and take no credit for knowing about it on my own by the way.

In the question that started this thread it is stated that the snipe is occuring on the front of the board, not the rear as would be the case in what I understand. Since I am not certain if I am understanding this for sure, I of course can not relate to the problem, but if the plate below the rollers and the rollers themselves are not on a common plane I suppose that a problem coujld occure. However, I believe that the rollers are spring loaded and this, I would think at first blush would remedy any problem there. Hope to hear more on this matter as I sure am courious if the snipe descriped is indeed on the front of the board and the rear of the board.

That's my two cents worth on the matter, will be watching this thread and subsequent posts

Jerry
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dmeadows View Post
Henry, pushing down on the back end of the board is what you don't want to do. That will cause snipe. Lifting the back end slightly should help. If you have more than one board to plane to the same thickness, running them end to end will eliminate snipe on all but the beginning of the first and end of the last. Extended infeed and outfeed support will also reduce snipe. There is much published info on this subject. A quick google search on "reducing planer snipe" should yield more info than you will likely want to read!
Also you can Google "planer penny trick" and you'll see that biasing the in and out feed support for increased lift is the direction to go. When I unboxed my planer and checked the tables, sure enough, they were adjusted up by, you guessed it, one penny.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 12:55 PM
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Also you can Google "planer penny trick" and you'll see that biasing the in and out feed support for increased lift is the direction to go. When I unboxed my planer and checked the tables, sure enough, they were adjusted up by, you guessed it, one penny.

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One such:
Penny trick - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

...I like the idea of the sacrificial stock in front of and behind, so the snipe happens in the sacrificial stock.

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 04:03 PM
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I dont know that planer, or if it can be adjusted.
If it has a pressure bar between the cutter head and out feed roller, the problem can be there "set too high".
If the machine has table rollers, those can be set too high also.
If the machine has a chip breaker- a pressure bar between the front roller and cutter head, there might be a problem there.
Machines with shorter distance in the cutter head unit are more likely to have snipe.

Having to cut off a board because of snipe would be a bad deal for me, the cost of the wasted wood, could exceed the cost of a good planer in a short time.

Some planers, snipe cant be eliminated totaly, but can be reduced so as wood is not wasted.

I held out, and found a planer that has zero snipe problems-none at all. That is, after careful set up of the components.


Don

Last edited by Sawdust Don; 01-14-2013 at 04:10 PM.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 04:42 PM
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Dewalt's tech support answer on setting the infeed/outfeed tables on the DW735 "a dime's thickness above the table". Anything up to about 6' long never has noticible snipe, i don't have the courage to try anything longer without setting up a stand!!
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by GulfcoastGuy View Post
Also you can Google "planer penny trick" and you'll see that biasing the in and out feed support for increased lift is the direction to go. When I unboxed my planer and checked the tables, sure enough, they were adjusted up by, you guessed it, one penny.

GCG

Thanks for the tip, Patrick.

I will try that.

I usually hold the end up slightly on both the infeed and outfeed side, and this seems to work for me.

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