Measuring for Framing Mitre Joints - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Measuring for Framing Mitre Joints

I have trying for months now to figure out how you can accurately come up with measurements to make a mitered frame for mirrors, pictures, and so on.....
Do anyone have the answer?
I tried many times to come up with the measurements for recycled stile and rail to make into frames, but for some reason I am ALWAYS short or long, no happy medium.

Would Greatly appreciate any help with this task.

Thanks in Advance.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 01:19 PM
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I believe that the key lives in the cutter setup. Of course if this is something that you intend to do a lot of there is always a special tool. But the best system I have seen is on the table saw that has an angled cut off piece anchored to the fence so you can trap an already cut end, along with a sharp hand planer set on it's side and a jig for holding the piece which might be slightly off.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 06:31 AM
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Are you saying that you want to frame a piece of glass, mirror or other object, rather that cutting the glass to to fit the frame? If so, use this formula.

The first thing you must do some measuring on the frame. In the first attached photo, you will see the profile of a frame. Obviously, your dimensions will be different than the example.



Take two small pieces of the frame and lay them back to back.



In this example, the frames width is 2", the overall width of the two pieces is 4". But, in this case, the overall width is meaningless. The rabbet depth is 5/8". Now, measure the distance between the two rabbets.

You will see that the distance between rabbets is 2-3/4"

Lets say the object that you want to frame is 10 x 12. Measure one side of the object that you want to frame.

Add the measurement between the rabbets (2-3/4") to the measurement of one side of object (10"), plus 1/8" to allow for wood movement or out of square glass. The length of the side, when measured at the long points, will be 12-7/8". (2-3/4" + 10" + 1/8" = 12-7/8")

Now, do the same thing with the other dimension. (2-3/4" + 12" + 1/8" = 14-7/8")

Hope this helps.

Jim
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 07:21 AM
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I'm guessing that you are only slightly off and if that is the case then you need to set up a jig with your miter gauge so that the point of the cut doesn't vary. You might also need a better miter gauge such as a Incra. If you use a miter saw then use a stop block. When you cut cut to the small point. As Jim stated the rabbet makes a difference so take that into consideration.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 07:51 AM
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you deduct 2x the distance the mirror will be inserted into the frame, from the inside not the depth, when you cut with a mitre saw you measure and cut on the inside corners. Say you have 1000 x 1000 mirror and you`re gong to router a 25 reveal where the mirror will be seated, the distance from the inner corners will be 950.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 07:55 AM
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I forgot to mention, once you`ve cut one rail or stile, use that one as a template to cut the other one, if it is going to be a square frame you cut all the others from the first one, that way you know all the sizes will be the same. Half a millimeter on a picture frame is not much.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Referring to jigs, I have learned it is quicker taping 2 boards together to ensure that you have exact matches.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks For all the Help, just trying to find the easiest way to make frames. Appreciate all the responses.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 09:32 PM
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I clamp my similar sides together. You are correct in cutting both at once. It is critical that opposite sides be exactly the same length and that is the easiest way to do it. One other tip I would suggest is that you may benefit from adding blade stabilizers to your saw. I bought what I thought was a good blade and still got rough cuts that left an unsightly joint line. The stabilizers cured that problem.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 11:08 PM
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Jim I love the clarity of your reply to Jester. Blind Freddy can follow this, well done. So many requests are ambiguous and unclear if not confusing.
Using diagrams, pictures can be so helpful. Thanks
Kerry

Kerry

Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsmen can hide his mistakes!
-Walter Blodget


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