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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Default New Table Saw advice

on the hunt for a new table saw for shop use, more heavy duty than the typical Lowes/HDepot stuff...

Have had good luck with Grizzly (bandsaw, sander, router table), any one with experience on this GO715p GrizzlyTable Saw?

G0715P 10" Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife, Polar Bear Series®

Seems a good bang for the buck with decent features, dust port, etc... application is moderate general purpose shop use, not building cabinets, boats or houses!

Currently using a Skill tabletop model mounted on a stand, just not cutting it.

Any other recommendations?

Thx in advance,
Ron

Last edited by rpludwig; 03-17-2013 at 11:58 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 11:40 AM
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The Ryobis seem to get good reviews.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 11:57 AM
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Hey, Ron; absolutely no reason you couldn't do any of those categories with the Grizzly or similar quality.
220V for sure
10" blade
2+hp minimum, 3 preferably
the best fence you can afford
the best mitre gauge you can find ...rock solid, no slop or flexing
floor mount if you've got the space...portables just aren't made to the same structural standard. (No one's packing a 500lb machine into their pickup then up a flight of stairs!)
Other than the obvious, stated above, look for reviews. Several members here have given the Grizzly a good looking over, hopefully they'll check in with their own opinions.
Personally, I've been using a Delta Contractor saw for years, and if I was doing it again, I'd be going your route!
How does this compare?
King Canada 10" 3HP Cabinet Saw [KC-26FXTI505052] - $1,849.99 : KMS Tools & Equipment from Vancouver BC, Largest selection of tools in Canada
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:08 PM
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There has been some problems with the Griz 715. The blade seems to shift to one side when elevated.
Most would not notice that, but others have returned the saw, and got the much better cabinet style saw.
I cant recall any complaints on the Griz cabinet models.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 05:43 PM
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If you are looking for a saw for moderate use a 1.5 HP 110V will probably meet your needs. I can get through 3 inch hard maple with mine. Don't skimp on the blade quality. If you have 220V already then that's a good option too. A cabinet style unit with good dust collection is important. As Daninvan says the fence and mitre gauge are very critical to accurate cuts. Look for a saw that allows you to adjust the table very precisely to the flat and square to blade.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 10:18 AM
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back about 20 year ago I bought a grizzly 10 inch contractor table saw . And when you would tilt the bade on a 45 degree and then try to run a board through it would pinch and burn the wood on the top of the board - bottom side of blade . That tells me the rear side of the trunion the device that holds the blade shaft was low . That is why it was like you were pushing your board into a wedge . And I did not realize until had it for some time . I just sold it and bought a Delta Unisaw. Gene
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 04:40 PM
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My rockwell contractors saw has that problem, it goes out close to .020" when tilted at 45.
There was some discussion on that on another site, it requires shimming of the works to correct.
The contractor saw has been a source of frustration for me. It now does secondary work, like box joints, and other dado related shorter cuts.
It seems most saws have that problem to one degree.
My big saw goes out .004" when tilted at 45, but there is no burning of the work edge with that smaller amount of misalignment.

Found I had a photo of testing the contractors saw.

Last edited by Sawdust Don; 03-17-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 05:56 PM
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I really don't have enough space or the 220v for a cabinet saw. I'm looking at two 1.75 hp contractor saws to replace my 1hp Delta TS 350. I like the 350 but it really bogs down on hardwood. The ones that have my interest are the Powermatic 64B Table Saw, 1.75 Hp 115/230V, 50-inch Fence With Riving Knife ($2,040.00$1,699.99) on Amazon and the Laguna 10" Fusion 1-3/4HP 36" Fence, Cast Iron Wings, with Riving Knife ($1,300). I think both have some pretty good reviews. I've never owned a Grizzly macine, but I do own a Powermatic Jointer that is precise, rugged and arrived in perfect shape without shipping charges from Amazon. I know the Powermatic can also be rewired to 220v should I ever muster the dough to hire an electrician to run new circuits. Comparable Grizzly contractor style saw is about $800 to 900 or so, and the listing says it has a slightly stronger motor (although reviewers say the two I like are also shipping with 2hp 110v-220v motors. Hard choice, isn't it. I see a big price difference between them, but as someone said, all things given, you get what you pay for and for $500 bucks or so difference, I'd rather go for the known quality of the Laguna, or get out a credit card for the difference and pop for the Powermatic. Gotta live with these babies for a long, long time. P.S., I mentioned the thought of replacing my Delta saw to my wife and I got one of THOSE looks. So I've gotta earn some extra to make this happen. Then I'll sell my very carefully tuned Delta.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 03-17-2013 at 06:00 PM. Reason: Adding a bit of info, correcting a type
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:09 PM
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Oddly, most all contractors saws take up slightly more space, due to the motor hanging out the back.
Otherwise, the contractors, and cabinet saws have the same foot print.

Now just my opinion, as I started out with a contractors saw.
Contractors saws are a poor design, the motor hanging out the back is a source of vibration.
They are a pain to keep aligned, due to the way the works is bolted under the table top itself.

The cabinet saws run smooth and produce a better cut finish.
Yes, they weigh about double, but, they can be quickly taken apart and moved down a flight of stairs.
If I had it to do again, I would have never gone the contractors saw route.

Ha Ha!
I was so frustrated with the contractors saw, I went a step beyond the the cabinet saw and picked up this 14"-1000lb saw.
Now, the regular cabinet saws are just too small!
I knocked this apart, and moved it into my basement work shop!


On the 110volt problem,
A fellow I know did this. He found a Powermatic model 66. those saws use a common motor mount. He pulled the stock high volt motor and installed a 1 1/2hp 110volt motor and switch.
Since he had a contractors saw and used thin kerf blades anyway, this worked out well for him.
the Powermatic 66, is a great saw.

Last edited by Sawdust Don; 03-17-2013 at 06:52 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 08:45 PM
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I recently ran a 240 volt line in my garage--wasn't that tough or expensive. Really only helped my current tools on start-up and maybe on heavy load, but it's nice not to have the lights go dim when i flip the On button. Also, for future used purchases, 220-240 volt machines tend to get passed up by the masses so there can be some deals there.

earl
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