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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Default reamer or drill

The finish hole size has to be 5/8. I currently cut pulleys on a cnc on mdf material.
I cut the hole a bit smaller and then use a lathe and a tapered reamer to get to the correct size. I reverse the pulley to make sure that the hole is flat. I know that a tapered reamer is the wrong tool to use to reach the final size.

My friend, a machinist and a woodworker, suggeted that I use a 5/8 drill instead of reamers. I always thought that a 5/8 drill would make the hole slightly larger than 5/8 due to the nature of drills.

I don't have a 5/8 drill , nor a straight reamer, so before I shell out some big buck, I'd like to know what to use. I need to keep the holes constant, since they are for consumers.

I am also wondering if I can make a tool, since I can control the hole with the cnc and then "lightly" touch it up. The material is 3/8 mdf.

tony
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 07:50 AM
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I would go with a straight chucking reamer. It will give you a accurate 5/8" (.625) diameter hole. It will also be consistent. If the two cutting edges of a drill bit are not exact, the bit will only cut on one side. It will pull, causing it to cut slightly larger. Once we start to touch up or resharpen our drill bits, this happens. You do not sharped a reamer, you just use it. Another advantage is that the finish of the hole will be better with a reamer. IMO.
Ellery Becnel
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 08:22 AM
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Like your friend I too am a machinest and completely agree with him and Arcola.

Russ
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 08:25 AM
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oops sorry only use reamer not adrill bit Arcola is right

Russ
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 09:47 AM
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"before I shell out some big buck, I'd like to know what to use. "
**********************************************
The best of Fiberboards are quite frangible and unmeasureable.
They're just too fuzzy to get the same hole reading twice. A milled (or ground/hardened) drill rod go-no-go rod is a better measure of hole diameter in MDF.

Most bradpoints will get you to + or - .002 (even at 5/8") or better if the cut & feed rates are respected. And that goes for reamers too. If the reamer is over driven it too will make a mess of the hole. Just how close to .625N" do you have to be?

Reamers are the tools of choice to hit a hole diameter but in MDF it gets ambiguous.
I think I'd drill a pilot hole, say 5/16 or 3/8 and use a Piloted Cleveland counterbore for the major diameter. Cleveland CB's are good to .001" and will hold their edges for 100's of holes in MDF.
Drills over & over.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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If I understand correctly, my choices are:
Use a chuck reamer or
drill a pilot hole and then use a piloted counterbore

Great suggestions. Thanks, guys.
tony
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2013, 12:05 PM
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A chucking reamer doesn't have to cost a bundle, search Enco Tool or Wholesale Tool or one of the other major tool suppliers, Your looking at around $20 for a HSS reamer. If your drill press will only go up to 1/2" the change the chuck to an inexpensive 5/8" chuck, also available from either of these places and probably have a better chuck than came on your drill press. You can use a 1/2 shank 19/32 drill bit and use a tap wrench and an adjustable reamer by hand like this one!

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PMPXNO=945121

Where there's a Willis there's a way!

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 10:37 AM
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You are talking about making the hole to an accuracy in the thousandths of an inch, in a wood product.

What happens when the RH changes? Is this something that is always in a humidity controlled environment?

MDF doesn't move as much as solids, but it still moves.

MDF moves about 1/10th as much as solid wood, so if the moisture content changes enough to move a piece of solid wood 1/16" the MDF will move a tenth of that, .006". Not much sense worrying about making the hole accurate to the nearest 1 or 2 thou, if it can move 6 thou when the weather gets damp and dreary.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 11:18 AM
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I dont know what CNC you are using, seems a second operation on a lathe would not be needed.
Would a 5/8" routerbit work in the CNC?
I never have tried a chucking reamer on mdf material, might not work well for that-the flutes are usually shallow, and may pack up with chips.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 05:31 PM
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Default Metal workers alway over think wood machineing

All I have ever done to make a interface fit in wood was to use a spade bit that i have ground on the sides to size for the fit of the shafting /plug or what ever . Very ease to do by hand at the bench grinder. dime a dozen these bits are and they cut clean a whistle with the spur.


never did understand the saying "clean as a whistle" you ever look in a whistle?


jack

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