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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default My Dust Collection System

Well, with the new saw coming, I think it's time to plumb in some dust collection for it. My old saw I could get away with sloughing off on it. I built that dust box that a shop vac could extract. This new one has a dust hood around the main and scoring blades- ported to the dust port which comes out the bottom of the back of the cabinet. Then it has another 2-1/4" port on the overhead crown. It was designed from "good" extraction to be there. If not, that dust hood around the blade would quickly fill up. Pictures of both those in my other thread.

I tried to buy a 2hp dust collector from Harbor Freight... But they were out. I got a rain check and I still have my 20% coupon. Will check back there Tuesday when there weekly shipment comes in.

I was thinking 4"ABS from the rear of the garage (where I want to put the dust collector).

You know... I was thinking of building an enclosure outside for it. Run the tube through the wall... Over the garage to the other side where most of my equipment is. I was going to do this in the 3 months of shipping, but now have only 1 week. So the initial might just be one side, with the collector on a cart to move outside the garage door to use. (limitted space)

Woodcraft is having a dust collection "fittings" sale... and I saw their dust separator lid. I already have a HD 30 gal steel garbage can that would work with that... and at $25?

Not sure what fittings I really need to mate to 4" abs. And if it's cheaper to go with abs fittings or to go with DC fittings.

I do know that the only thing I have that's 4" will be that saw. Everything else I have is 1-1/4"-- My SCMS, CMS, RAS, Router table(s)... So I do have 2-3 ports that I need to adapt/reduce for those.

That And I usually tidy up, vacuuming my garage. Sharon get's a bit miffed if she accidentally drops a piece of laundry and feels like she needs to rewash it if covered in saw dust. (Have to keep the peace.)

I took over the spare bedroom and moved all 10 of my servers into it (the computer room). But I still have some overflow electronics in the garage, that I still need to move. There was getting to be too much saw dust. (Knowing I have a DC problem.)

So anyone with tips on categorizing what might be considered necessary, the nice to haves and what would be a waste of money or effort? What could be substituted? Ideas?

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 05-16-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 08:39 PM
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I used mostly 4" galvanized duct pipe. Cheap, fits plastic blast gates and fittings, and it's easy to ground to. I am very paranoid about shop fires. I switched to flex hose to go frm my main 2 runs to individual machines.

What I've been reading in Fine Woodworking says that you need a cyclone so that you can use a hepa quality filter at the DC. Unless, of course, you stick the DC outside. I've been considering that one too.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I used mostly 4" galvanized duct pipe. Cheap, fits plastic blast gates and fittings, and it's easy to ground to. I am very paranoid about shop fires. I switched to flex hose to go frm my main 2 runs to individual machines.

What I've been reading in Fine Woodworking says that you need a cyclone so that you can use a hepa quality filter at the DC. Unless, of course, you stick the DC outside. I've been considering that one too.
I can see that if I used galv. duct pipe, that it would mate up to 4" flex in a heartbeat... and would ground easily. You don't have any problems with it trying to collapse?

For the cyclone, I was looking at this:

But I'm thinking the design of that is off a bit (already scheming a better design modded from that...)

Update on the DC requirements of that saw, minimum of 1000 cubic feet per minute. The HF 2hp is rated at 1550cfm.* That would collapse a regular duty poly trash can... if used with the above cyclone lid (hd or steel recommended). Would galvy ducting hold up to that?

(Note: *- Their 2 smaller one's are both just not enough cfm for this saw.)

And then, attached is a better pic of the dust hoods.
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"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 05-16-2013 at 09:40 PM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 11:10 PM
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Mine is a 2 hp with a 6" intake split into 2 inlets of 4". I'm not sure what the CFM is, I bought it used. I've had it at least 5years with no issues with the piping. I don't have a cyclone yet so can't answer on that. You could always use an old oil drum. You could bolt some gate handles to it to make it easier to handle.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 01:07 AM
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Mike; was that a typo when you said ABS as opposed to PVC?
Just curious as most most discussions and pictures refer to the PVC model(?)...
What would be the advantage of going to ABS?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 06:01 AM
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I've had good results with the Thein style separator i built. Posted some pictures last fall on the BT3central site last fall--http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=56296&highlight=thein+separator

The DC unit is now on a shelf about 75" off the floor and the separator usually sits below it. I only get chips in the bag when i forget to empty the separator--now that it takes a ladder to empty i'm better at remembering to check the can. I did consider an outside enclosure, but with 10' side walls figured it was easier to use the space up above.

The fitting kit for the separator was under $20 from Peachtree i think. Since my "shop" is all rolling tools that need to be pulled away from the wall to use, having the Dust Right fittings is helpful. Still a pain in the butt to do the hook-up, but not the worst thing i deal with in life--and way cheaper than a new building!!

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Mike; was that a typo when you said ABS as opposed to PVC?
Just curious as most most discussions and pictures refer to the PVC model(?)...
What would be the advantage of going to ABS?
Wasn't a typo, just a perspective. Wood craft has DC to ABS adapter fittings.

4" PVC is cheaper, but in a garage or shop, you don't really have a whole lot of long runs. Around here, there is an assortment of ABS fittings and adapters. But here (Local), 4" PVC and and 4" Schedule 40 PVC fittings are a premium (hard to find). Now if I go to somewhere like a commercial supplier, H.D. Fowler or a commercial irrigation supplier...

ABS is just durable. Not as much static. You don't have to worry about chemicals or it getting hit by something and shattering... And (not that it matters) it matches the color scheme of DC fixtures. (just saying)

But pvc is fine also. I guess galvy ducting might work also... But I think noise wise, with particulates moving through it generating there own noise... noisiest would be metal ducting, then PVC, then ABS... Not that I think much of that really matters if that 2 HP DC is installed initially in a confined space. (In the garage) That itslef should drown out most everything else. (Consideration to moving it outside and to save interior space.) Then metal dusting might not be as airtight(?)

But that for me? It's only 20-30 feet on one side of the garage. Later Adding a sweep (large radius 90) to get it across the garage through to the outside. It's not commercial. It's not a big shop. It's a single car garage. And with the humidity here almost always being up near 100% (only average 52 days without rain a year and most of those are overcast or foggy), there's not a problem here with static.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 02:31 PM
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Let's see pics when it's finished and the hardware is in place.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 03:00 PM
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I taped my connections. Noise with the piping is not an issue. You couldn't possibly hear the difference from one type to the other. My DC is several times louder than my saw. You're still going to have an issue with what the saw blade throws when it is coming up and around the top of the table. Does the new saw have a blade guard with a DC connection?

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know on the noise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Does the new saw have a blade guard with a DC connection?
Yes, it does- See the photo attached to post #3, this thread. They sell a hose hanger for that... but they are proud of it ($230). I figure PVC or hanging the hose from the ceiling would work out better for me.

Yes, since a cabinet saw with DC hoods below and above... The heavy gauge steel access panel for the cabinet is bolted on from the right side, under the right extension (53" reach on the right)... I'm thinking I don't want to have to open it often. Luckily, with the sliding table pushed back, I should be able to get to most things inside the cabinet (to clean and such) without having to take that access panel off.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
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