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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Default dado plate insert

got a sears table saw 137.218010
in the manual it says it can handle a 6" dado set up and to make sure you use a dado insert plate, but I cant find it anywhere.

I have chatted with sears on partsdirect site. no luck.

I found one in store that is close but not quite it.

one on right is original one, one on left is the close but no cigar one
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 09:43 PM
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Hi Slackinone! Welcome to the forum.

How thick is your original tablesaw insert? Can you make one of your own out of shop materials? It's common to make zero clearance inserts at home out of plywood, MDF, or hardboard (depending on how thick it is). You just use the original one and cut the others to fit the same size saw opening and screw pattern. That way you can save some money and get an insert that precisely fits your dado cutter. I have about a dozen for all my different widths of dado sets.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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not to thick, but the screaw holes have an indent and a spacer for the original.

after searching someone pointed out the real maker of the saw that sears (craftsman) put their name on.

Sears and Craftsman Source Product Code
137 Rexon

defodesign.com/tradesman_rexon/

so I'll try there , but if its too much I can try and make one
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 11:02 PM
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+1 on that. Make your own. I just got the Oshlun 6" stack and made one from mdf. No leveling screws; used a tip from Woodsmith and set it down on some spots of hot glue, worked great.

Leveling a Table Saw Insert | Woodsmith Tips

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 11:46 PM
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You can't make one out of plywood or mdf, they would be way too thick. You might be able to make one out of sheet metal if you have the skills. I made one for an older Sears saw. If you can find another insert like the one you already have you should be able to cut the blade area out to fit the dado set.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 12:01 AM
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Hi Slackinone, I would suggest you make your own out of some kind of wood or plastic product the same thickness as your plate. Take a look at this video. Although your plate is made differently you would need to follow this same procedure. I always try to copy the same type of mechanism to hold the plate in as your old plate. Hope this helps.

MM 2-18-12: Zero clearance inserts - YouTube

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 12:19 AM
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Russ and Patrick... Craftsman contractor style saw. The stock insert is pressed tin, about 1.3mm (18 gauge) sheet metal. Not even enough room there to make an insert out of thin lexan or aluminum (no strength at that thickness).

The one he has pictured on the left is model #29973, for a 113.221740 saw.

What I would do, is order an original insert plate (they're about $14.00) and cut out the relief yourself. Mark the center of a 10" blade on the insert. Then use the wrong plate's coutout to get where it needs to be cut out.

Check often and adjust to what is there. That is the easiest way to do that. Holes will then all be correct. The size will fit. And the pressed in seats will be correct.

I've got a plasma arc, air cutoffs, die grinders... But you could drill a few holes in the corners, then cut it out with a hacksaw.

Another alternate would be to make it from sheet metal. More work and would have to level it with washers. The insert would be too thin to level with set screws.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 10:39 PM
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I didn't realize this is a stamped sheetmetal plate. Mike has the right idea on this, a new plate, a hacksaw and a file!

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 08:44 AM
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I have a craftsman table saw too. The plates you have in the picture look identical to mine.

I made zero clearance plates out of Plexiglas and used the router to countersink a hole on the bottom. The back side screw hole is raised 3mm to hold the original stamped plate flush with the table. After trimming everything I slowly raised the dado and let it cut its own hole. That essentially what was in the above video; I just took it a step further and rabited the bottom edges to get it flush with the table.

Workmanship is not perfection; it is how well you can cover your mistakes.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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Default dado insert

I too recently got a dado set and had trouble trying to sort out Sears part numbers for a dado insert. My saw is a Sears 315. and the insert plate is nominally 1/8" and the leveling screws add another 1'8". I just used 1/4" oak plywood, cut the shape, drilled and counter sunk the set screw, put it in and set the fence down on it and raised the dado blade to make the cut. I made one for 1/2" and one for 3/4". Hope this helps.
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