Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
According to what I read I gather you laminated the different widths and thicknesses together?
Yes, I did. I probably could have made a smaller bar for that one, but on the digital miter bar there where some eccentricities in how the electronic controls sensed how the bar was turned in relation to the head... My getting the bar down for that involved an angle grinder, files, a straight edge, a square, a caliper and lots of patience.
The bottom was a little bit challenging. I couldn't thin the bar down to 1/4" because of those controls. The bottom plate (whether 3/8" or 1/4" thick), when you tighten up the set screws (not an issue if not on a sliding table) it raise that bar to the top of the bottom T. That put the top of the miter bar at 1/8" above the table.
So I came up with 1/4" bar and adding a 1/8" land to each side so that when the plate raised, it left the top of the miter bar level with the table.
After doing all that the hard way... Then I remebered that I had an old 6" cross-slide vide and some end mills that I probably could have used in my drill press. Oh well. When I checked the fit of that vise in this drill press, it would have had to been a jury rigged affair anyways.
For the Delta, It's going to be a lot easier to make a miter bar for it. I have some 5/8" by 1/4" stock... left over from broken HF squeeze clamps (they tend to not last long!!!)... That I only have to take less than 1/16" off to make fit. So then I'll just have 4 holes to drill and tap for the gauge and fixtures to mount to. Since it will be only 1/4" thick, I can use a bottom bar that won't need anything done to it to make the miter bar ride at the right height. Just 2 set screw holes and a couple clearance holes for screw heads (or countersinks in the miter bar).
***Sidenote- That uni-t-fence arrived today. It should work for you. To work for me, I just need to doing a few mod's (milling off the bottom t-slots) to make work for me.