Band Saw Blade Beginning To Drift.... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Band Saw Blade Beginning To Drift....

This morning I needed to re-saw some veneer on the BS. The workpiece that I made the cuts from was a piece of walnut 2" wide, or tall in this case, and 30" in length,
the veneer that I cut off of it was .060" thick on one end and .067" at the other, the problem might be that I am using a one inch wide blade and it does not cut real smooth so this rough cut might be the issue. Hey, I'm only kidding of course, sure am happy with my Grizzly BS.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 01:50 PM
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I was thinking maybe you're feeding it too fast, the tension is incorrect or blade is dull. Check this article.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 02:50 PM
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.007 is allowed by me just in measuring error... run it through yer planer, might actually get it down to .001
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TomE View Post
.007 is allowed by me just in measuring error... run it through yer planer, might actually get it down to .001
My planer won't go that low, will have to live with the excessive error, maybe when the veneer is glued to the workpiece that it was made for, it can be sanded flat enough to live with if nobody looks real close, does that like a plan.

Just thought of something that might have caused the problem, the top blade guide had not been lowered to the correct height, it was still cranked up real high, but due to the re-saw fence the guide can't be lowered any lower than the fence which is almost six inches high. Again, only joshin, I'm really happy with the saw and sure do recommend the way Snodgrass tells BS owners to set their BS saws up.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 05:15 PM
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Jerry don't forget you can tape/glue your work piece to a thicker piece to give you the height needed to run it through the planer.

I too just got a Grizzly BS and am very happy with it. The only 2 issues so far is that after putting the Riser kit on it the upper guides shift a little when raising/lowering the guard any large distance. And the other is I am working to many hours to use it as much as I would like.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
My planer won't go that low, will have to live with the excessive error, maybe when the veneer is glued to the workpiece that it was made for, it can be sanded flat enough to live with if nobody looks real close, does that like a plan.Jerry
good plan..

One of the perks of getting older is a bit of diminished visual acuity, that dang variance of .178 mm will now slip right by me every time. Might also just sand to touch and make up the variance in thickness with a little extra finish on the shy end.

Last edited by TomE; 06-19-2013 at 07:20 PM. Reason: having fun
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'm sort of getting the feeling that my joshing about the .007" of an inch variation in the thinkness of the veneer that I cut with the BS is being taken more serious than I had intended it to be. In my opinion that much variation is in thickness is quite exceptable considering the fact that the one ince wide blade does not make a real smooth cut and the roughtness of the cut probably contributes to most of the small error in the thinckness of the cut or the ability to make an accurate measurement of the actual thickness of the veneer. Does anybody think that the BS should really cut closr that what I am talking about in this thread? I can't cut a rip cut on my TS that is much closer than what than what I'm talking about with the re-saw cut on the BS, a couple thousands variation from one end to the other on a 30" rip is quite normal of me and I'd be surprised if anybody can really make a rip cut that is much closer than that.

Jerry

Went out to work in the shop after posting the above post and tried another cut with the BS, this time the cut was better, it measured .0885" on both ends, I was more careful about holding the work piece close to the fence as the cut was made. By the way the cut was made from a workpiece that was only .250" think that I cut it from.

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 06-20-2013 at 07:26 AM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 07:53 AM
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.007 < 1/128 and across 30" is a drift of .0133 degrees. Unacceptable! I'd send the BS back.

{also joshing}

Nice.

GCG

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 08:00 AM
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With that kind of error, Jerry's BS must be carefully examined--not something we can entrust to the manufacturer. As a favor, i'd be willing to examine it in my "lab" for a time...say 10 or 15 years?? Won't charge you a dime Jerry!!

earl
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 09:24 AM
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Besides that Bandsaw being "on..." like others noted, I have to mention that that also means that Jerry is very dead on, provided an even feed rate and has a very steady hand. Great job Jerry!

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
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