The plastic Mini Fence jig is almost toy quality and quite delicate. A jig made from wood with a plastic strip would likely last forever. I'm also considering making a jig to replace my Mini Fence jig. There are 2 slots for the fence strip in the original jig, one on each side of the saw blade. This is to allow you to be able to index the work in either direction past the blade by moving the fence strip to the other side of the blade. Only one slot is really needed. The moving section of the table part of the jig allows you to position the fence strip for making inserts in the center of mitered corners (see video). Wood spacers are used to get the cuts in the correct position. Only the first cut is made, then the fence strip is moved back to it's original position to make the follow on cuts. In my opinion, this movable base section isn't really needed, unless you plan to use the jig a lot for this purpose.
Can you lock your sliding table? Then you could use the miter slot to mount the jig. You could also drill and tap 2 holes in your saw table (you probably don't want to do this). The jig can be made mirror image to the one in the video and it will work the same, but you will index your work across the jig in the opposite direction. It always needs to go past the saw blade and toward the fence strip.
The strip that forms the working part of the Mini Fence needs to be narrower than your saw blade kerf, at least where it is above the base, and the ends of it are longer to keep it from sliding out of the slot while in use. If you look very closely in the video you will see this. When you use the jig you have to always position your work against this strip as you feed the work into the saw blade. The space from this side of the strip to the blade and the width of the saw blade kerf have to be exactly the same dimension for the jig to work properly. If there is any run-out in your blade you will have difficulty getting this fence to blade spacing correct. Once you get it right the first time, make a setup block, like in the video, so you can put it over the fence strip and then butt the blade against it, while you lock the jig in position on the saw. It will make life so much easier. The video makes this jig positioning part look way too easy. It will take many attempts to get it right the first time. It will be much easier after you have made the setup block, but if you use different blades with the jig you will need to make a setup block for each blade.
To make boxes with greater than 4 sides you will need to tilt the work back as you slide it over the saw blade. The original jig has wedges made from wood that are used to replace the wood fence on the miter gauge to make doing this much easier. The wedge shaped fence needs to be cut to match 1/2 the angle of the joint and it replaces the flat board on the miter fence. On the first use you will need a slot cut through it to clear the fence strip. I usually just mark where it will be and cut the slot before installing and using this new wedge on the jig the first time.
This is a fun jig to use. I hope others beside the two of us get inspired to make these jigs. But a router isn't required until you make inlay strips with the jig. Then you need a router to make the recess that you will glue the inlay strips into, so routers do eventually get used here :~).
To make inlays with the jig you simply make many finger cuts through a piece of wood, then cut these fingers off to make small square strips. You then make another similar strip of contrasting wood with shallow fingers. Then insert and glue the square strips into the saw cuts of this contrasting strip. Once these strips are assembled you can get creative, slicing them cross grain or diagonal and gluing them together to make miniature checkerboard or Indian art style inlays, or cut the checkerboards into squares and insert them turned at 45 deg angles into inlay strips, etc. Your imagination and time are the only limits once you start doing this. I use white glue when making these inlays. It dries transparent and seems more than adequate in strength for making inlay strips. Waxed paper above and below the inlay strips keeps them flat and from sticking to the bench and counterweights while the glue dries.You want the inlay strips to be just slightly proud of your work surface when installed, so you can sand them level and smooth.
The attached is all I have of the Kyrmi Mini Fence documentation. It is 20 years old, so please don't anyone try to order from it. I have posted it for "information only".
Central North Carolina
Last edited by CharleyL; 03-07-2014 at 11:53 AM.