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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Default Band saw blade

I just got a new blade for my table saw. I choose the Forrester woodworker II because it got excellent reviews and can be sharpened by Forrester. Who better to have sharpen a blade then the company that made it. It cuts like butter and makes a very clean cut. I am very happy with it but it was high priced.

Now I want to get a good blade for my band saw.
What is the blade I should get if money is not an object?
What is the blade I should get if I am on a budget and money is a factor?

I want something that will rip and cross cut any wood I feed through it.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 10:43 PM
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Go to ?(not associated with Woodcraft)
Call and speak with either John the owner or his only employee.
Tell them what you want to cut with your bandsaw and they will sell you what you need.
Great folks, great prices and excellent quality products.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 06:47 AM
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The highlander hardware in atlanta ga. Sells a band saw blade called the slicer. It is an excellent blade. I have cut some very thin slices from hardwoods.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 08:16 AM
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I use Timberwolf band saw blades. Woodcraft supply carries them. They make all the sizes you might want. Their blades are thin kerf as well. I have used their 3/2 3/4" resaw blade to resaw 1 1/8 thick Mahogany boards in half that aRE 11"wide on a Central machinery 14" band saw.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 12:57 PM
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For resawing on my 14", i'm very pleased with the Highland Woodslicer as mentioned earlier. Most decent blades will cut what you put in front of them, but the "best" blade will be one that is properly matched to the task. My Woodslicer can (and has) crosscut with good results, but if i'd taken the time to swap blades to the task i'd have had better results. Last weekend i cut a 15" x 4" piece of 1/4" phenolic from a 24" x 24" sheet with the Woodslicer, did the job but i knew that i was going to smooth the edges anyway. I'd not want to cut arcs with that blade, good as it is!!

Summary--the best bandsaw blade will be a good blade that is matched to the task at hand, coupled with a good set-up on the saw. The bandsaw can be an extremely flexible machine, and perform a lot of different jobs. The only way to pick one single best blade is if you are only doing one single type of cut on your saw. For that reason, as you're getting started, might be worth calling Highland, Timberwolf,
woodcraft bands, or your vendor of choice to order a few different blades that fit you and your saw. Be prepared to tell them what type of work you intend to do most of the time (resaw? circle/curve cutting? bandsaw boxes?). Then watch Alex Snodgrass on YouTube in his bandsaw setup video--well worth the 30 minutes of so in my opinion.

Good luck!!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 02:15 PM
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Go with Highland woodslicer for resawing or get the right blade for your cutting application. I use different blades ,depends on what I'm cutting. I used haltbar bandsaw blade for rough cutting.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 05:59 PM
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I use the Highland Woodslicer, 1/2", on my 14" Grizzly band saw for resawing and general purpose ripping and couldn't be happier. I also have 3 other blades, all Timberwolf, for other types of cuts. If you go to Timber Wolf® blades from 1/8” to 1” for every cutting application; scroll cutting, curve cutting, ripping, cross-cutting, resawing and milling. they have a great set of charts, it seems to go on forever, to help you select the right blades for whatever projects you have in mind. If you want to do any tight cuts, similar to scroll saw cuts, I can recommend the Carter Stabilizer. Now, if I could only learn to follow the lines ...
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 08:04 AM
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You seen to be equating money with quality blades and it does not work like that on different machines. A blade manufacturer can produce a million blades but these million blades are going on a million different machines, each with its own special and unique characteristics. I would suggest getting several Carter blades with different tooth and skip/rake configurations, makes cuts on cheap wood to see the difference and to learn the peculiarities of your machine. The exception to this is the wood slicer previously mentioned and the Grizzly carbide re-saw blades, both seem to work on any machine. The wood slicer seems to be the better of the two (less expensive also)

Good luck - Baker
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