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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Default fixing formica doors

I have an old very wall closet (probably 40 years), very good construction, with formica doors. The formica on some of the corners has come lose. I want to fix this before I glue new, lighter colored formica on top of the old, . The openings are not big - can't use contact glue. Picture attached. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 09:19 AM
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I'd use a small paint brush to get glue under, if going to put new on top, even peal it back abit more to make sure enough adhesive is used...?

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 10:00 AM
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I don't think that is formica I think it is HDF. Any good glue should hold it. Use a brush like BC suggested and you can use strips of masking tape to hold it in place while the glue dries. If it really is a laminate then I would use Melamine glue. In fact, I would use Melamine glue either way. Rough up the surface good before you try to laminate over it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 07:12 PM
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I agree, peel it up as much as possible, put some good glue and clamp it. If it was laminate glue I would heat and clamp. Good luck to you.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 05:58 AM
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The surface that is rising is properly not Formica, it appears to be a a compressed paper with a printed surface on glossy paper. My 30 year-old house has true 100% oak cabinets with the exception of the end panels that are identical to your doors. After gluing back down (or removing and substituting with 1/8" plywood), as suggested with a brush and yellow glue consider using a paper back veneer and yes, spray contact cement (water based if allergies or bomb detectors are present). Formica and other brands of melamine resin products are expensive and your current surface is most likely unobtainable as a replacement item. If you were not in Israel new doors might be easier and less expensive but I have found that estimating prices in your country is beyond my capacity. If you have an Ikea nearby, search there for a new lower cost door kit and just use the doors.

Best of luck and let us know what finally works - Baker
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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The surface that is rising is properly not Formica, it appears to be a a compressed paper with a printed surface on glossy paper. My 30 year-old house has true 100% oak cabinets with the exception of the end panels that are identical to your doors. After gluing back down (or removing and substituting with 1/8" plywood), as suggested with a brush and yellow glue consider using a paper back veneer and yes, spray contact cement (water based if allergies or bomb detectors are present). Formica and other brands of melamine resin products are expensive and your current surface is most likely unobtainable as a replacement item. If you were not in Israel new doors might be easier and less expensive but I have found that estimating prices in your country is beyond my capacity. If you have an Ikea nearby, search there for a new lower cost door kit and just use the doors.

Best of luck and let us know what finally works - Baker
Thanks to all for the advice. I had thought of removing the formica/compressed paper or what ever it is, but since most of it is well attached - seems like making a bigger job and looking for trouble. THere is an Ikea nearby, but I doubt that these doors are standard sizes. If I have time, I may look into it.
Baker - are you suggesting 3 options? 1) yellow glue 2) paper back verneer (if I replace all of the the covering?) or spray contact cement. If so, the yellow glue will probably be my choice, as I have a strong carpenter's glue at home.
I will get to this next week and let you know how I get along.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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I will work on the corners this weekend. looking ahead, I am thinking of using veneer on top of the old formica/HDF/compressed paper instead of formica as originally planned. Will it hold? I've never worked with veneer. Should I use contact cement as I would with formica (not much experience with that either)? White/yellow glue? I'm not familiar with melamine glue, but imagine that I can find it here if I look.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 11:29 AM
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Traditionally it was put on with hot melt hide glue which allowed it to be "ironed" flat after. I wouldn't brush on contact cement as that often leaves small lumps and they may show through. Spray contact cement may work okay. Liquid hide glue is often used now instead of hot melt but you would need to press it flat while it dries as you would have to do with any other liquid. Based on all that the spray contact cement is probably the best choice.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 07:42 PM
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Hi, Hank.

I think that it is better to repair those doors, as some members suggest. It will be too dificult to find tha original formica format you have.

To remove the original HPL is a easy task if you place some thinner in between the laminate and the substarte. Then, you need to eliminate all the old glue from both surfaces. This last is a time consuming task.

I recently made an upgrade in the small doors of our vanity using this procedure.

We, woodworkers are everywhere!!!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankh View Post
Thanks to all for the advice. I had thought of removing the formica/compressed paper or what ever it is, but since most of it is well attached - seems like making a bigger job and looking for trouble. THere is an Ikea nearby, but I doubt that these doors are standard sizes. If I have time, I may look into it.
Baker - are you suggesting 3 options? 1) yellow glue 2) paper back verneer (if I replace all of the the covering?) or spray contact cement. If so, the yellow glue will probably be my choice, as I have a strong carpenter's glue at home.
I will get to this next week and let you know how I get along.
1. what the others said will work and I agree, if it is only the corners you want to fix
2. replace the fronts with 1/8" plywood (pin nails and yellow glue)
3. The plywood can be stained, painted or you can use paperbacked veneer and spray contact adhesive -
4. another option just use brass of steel corner covers to take the abuse that corners get and cover the existing problem
5 - Ikea

Let us know how any of the suggestions, from any of us work for you - best of luck - Baker
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