Blade for Bandsaw Boxes (Carterguide...?) - Router Forums
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default Blade for Bandsaw Boxes (Carterguide...?)

So this past weekend I chanced upon an Olson 105" 1/4" 6TPI blade for $12...brand new/clearance from $22, in a box...for my 14" Rikon. My original plan is to call Highland and get a 3/16"...but I might not be able to use the 3/16 without the Carter guide... I think my side bearings are about 3/16". That might be why manual says 1/4" smallest...

So now I'm thinking...did I just buy a pound of nails and looking to build a house...?

Can I use the 1/4 without Carter's guide bearing...?
Do I put my upper guide all the way up to allow flex...?
Or adjust to the wood like I might normally...?
Will 1/4" do for making boxes...?
What might I expect for a radius...?

Do I throw it out before I get into any more trouble...?

Thanks in advance...


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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 10:08 PM
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Nick go carter web site to use less then a 1/4" you need the carter stabilizer.
Here what they say. Carter's revolutionary patented Stabilizer® band saw guide provides excellent stability and unmatched versatility when cutting with blades ¼" or less in width. Simply slip the Stabilizer® in the slot normally occupied by your saw's side support block holder, or if you own or are purchasing a Carter full guide kit then it's just as easy as sliding out the upper guide and in the Stabilizer® and you're ready to cut
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 01:45 PM
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Nick, I used a Carter stabilizer on my 14" Grizzly for the first time, a couple of weeks ago, with a 105", 1/8" 14Tpi Timberwolf blade to cut out a heart shaped band saw puzzle box. The blade and the Carter stabilizer worked great, just like a high powered scroll saw. Of course you still have to be able to follow the line or it will come out looking like mine did. I highly recommend the Carter stabilizer if you're going to be using narrow blades and making tight turns. Using a 1/4" blade you should be able to get a 5/8" radius. You can find a lot of blade info here Silicon Steel & Carbide Blade Selection Chart | Suffolk Machinery - Timber Wolf Bandsaw Blades
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 08:43 PM
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Default Notes From a Rambler-er

Nick, like several others, four thumbs up for the Carter Stailizer. I just cut a five inch piece of apple wood for a band saw box using a 3/16" and got down to around a 3/8" radius. Of course, just like on the video showing the Stabilizer put through its paces, it squealed.

Using it and pushing it to the limit will, certainly, make you nervous. Before, getting anywhere near what I do with the Carter would trash a blade. So far, I've haven't killed any. Instead, they jumped ship (pulling back and not aware - one of the "tight turn techniques), but didn't break.

The directions with the Stabilizer are not clear. Probably to avoid liability when it's recommended you run with the guard raised all the way (the flex you mentioned) to make tight turn cuts. Anyway, I raised mine and. other than the intimidation offered by the glare of a meat cutter seen before me, it seems the best way to get the max out of the guide and blades. Of course, there would be a huge difference between the gap of a fourteen inch with a standard (e.g., 93=1/2" blade) and one with a 105" blade, for a twelve inch cutting capacity.

All that said, cool blocks or bearings play fine with even 1/8" blades. Obviously, you don't want the teeth running through the guides, but that's what the back stop is for.

The reason I have what you want is, I never lent it out before.

Scraps are a myth.

Last edited by Dejure; 05-04-2014 at 08:49 PM.
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