Mine is kicked out at .2mm, which is .007" in 36"'es. My sliding table is set kicked out about the same in 62". My crosscut fence is inside .2mm at 1400mm. The closest I seem to be able to keep mine is about 0.002". My panel saw doesn't have any miter slots (persay). The blade on that is set to the frame, then you adjust everything off that.
But if you break those down, on the rip fence (for mine), that's .002" per foot. Slider, .001" per foot, which the crosscut the same. Took a long time getting those that way... but my saw has "adjustments to dial that in.
I do make sure those are at least positive (kicked out). I have not noticed any snipe or difference w dado's... which I also use a lot.
A normal cabinet saw and other full size table saws usually have a 27" table. Harder to dial in on a shorter table... But my Rockwell is. Both saws, no snipe.
Personally, IMHO, .025" would be excessive. .25mm would be right there. I usually set other peoples saw's Rip fence's at within.005" to the blade and left miter. But I had gauges made up to make that easier. (like a 36" straight piece of 5/8" square key stock and a dial indicator. But I start out for truing the arbor and going from there. My jobsite saw, I also settle on within 0.005". It get's beat, travels in the truck and because it is not as solid, has to be tuned more often.
But it really depends on the saw... I would shoot for at least within 0.010 in 27". I do less than 25% of my cuts with the rip fence. About half of that other time I have my rip fence shifted right and flipped forward, out of the way. Same was with the Rockwell, but with using various sleds.
It's a compromise. Too little or a negative and you risk catching the work in a trap between the blade and fence. To much and it will tend to pull the work of the fence on the off-side, be rubbing the kerf at left-front toe of the blade, keeping pressure on the left side of the blade causing more heat on the left side. That shortens the life of the blade and causes a flutter looking cut. (more saw marks) That uneven heat and wear tends to dull the blade faster and shorten the blade life...
Having those dialed in does seem to have less drag on the work, have a better quality cut and extend blade life. But that is just what I've noticed over the years with my saws and cutting various density of woods. For me, that means less sanding and less tooling costs over the long run. The again, most people aren't doing cabinet, finish and mill-works.
"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
Last edited by MAFoElffen; 06-20-2014 at 03:47 AM.