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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default butcher block chopping block

I have a 24x24 free standing chopping block that is 10 inches or so deep. It is maple. I bought it used; it has a concave top where the previous owner (restaurant) had chopped meat to the point that the block sinks in about 1/2 inch. How can I get the top to be flat? And also best way to clean it so it can be food safe?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 03:16 PM
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apply 3"x 1" planed timber to 2 sides with hot melt glue or clamps, & use a router with ski's to flatten top
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jody.j View Post
I have a 24x24 free standing chopping block that is 10 inches or so deep. It is maple. I bought it used; it has a concave top where the previous owner (restaurant) had chopped meat to the point that the block sinks in about 1/2 inch. How can I get the top to be flat? And also best way to clean it so it can be food safe?
Electric hand planter... edges first then the whole surface until you get to good dry wood... plane towards the center to keep edges from splintering then heavy sanding. I used to use heavy metal wire brush to clean at end of day in my butchering days... best success,

Nick

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Last edited by Nickp; 07-22-2014 at 05:37 PM.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 08:16 PM
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apply 3"x 1" planed timber to 2 sides with hot melt glue or clamps, & use a router with ski's to flatten top
+1 with a few more details... They both would actually need to be "straight" edges, set in the same plane with each other. Would be too great a distance across it for ski's. (I can see that as someone's suggestion, but not practical.)

You also might flip it over and see what thew bottom looks like. Some are made to get the most use out of them (hint)... Even if holes, there might be less planing or filling using that side.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default skis?

could you describe this process? and what type of router bit?

regarding turning it over, I don't thnk I can, because it has 4 hefty legs mounted to the underside. although it is totally worth a look
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 08:21 PM
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could you describe this process? and what type of router bit?

regarding turning it over, I don't thnk I can, because it has 4 hefty legs mounted to the underside. although it is totally worth a look
Clamp, tack or use two sided tape to mount a jointered or straight edged board on two sides of your workpiece, to use as rails to guide your jig. You set it up so that both boards are on the same plane. Easiest way is to level the workpiece, or whaqtever the workpiece will be setting on (or mounted to)... then put a level between an end of one rail and the same end of the other. Repeat for the other ends.

Use a dado style jig, that is long enough tol extend between the rails. The But I use is a Magnate 2707 Surface Planing (Bottom Cleaning) Router Bit - 2-3/4"d. The bit will be big enough diameter that you'll have to mount it with the chuck stuck through the slot of the dado jig already. Some people use a guide bushing... Since I'm not really doing a true dado with it, I use guide rails across the top of the jig so that the plate of the router rides inside those guide rails of the jig

Cutting process is you go across and back... as you move move the jig up the rail after each pass... to make an overlapping cut into a fresh area... until you have the whole workpiece planed.

What you are doing is suspending the router above the workpiece at a set plane... ending up with a flat workpiece.

You can use a smaller bottom cleaning mortising router bit (I've done with a 1" bit" . Just more times across to get it all done.


Since you are at 24" with your workpiece, I'd go with a 2 2" x 3/4" strip next to the workpiece and two 3 to 4" x 3/4" rails outside of that resembling:
|_-------_|
...That way when you go across and get close to the rails, you have enough room to get the bit over the edge of the workpiece.

What I have is rails made up with two 3/$" thick rails assembled into an "L" so that I can screw them to 3/4" plywood, however wide I need. Since you only have one project planned, you don't have to get fancy or re-usable... but your choice.

I've planed 24" to 36" wide bartops, up to about 20' long (so far) using that same technique.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 07-26-2014 at 08:51 PM.
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