Hand power plane sole shimming - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Default Hand power plane sole shimming

Hi guys

I've just put new blades in my power planer and put a new cable on it as the old one had a cut in the outer protection. After putting it all back together gave it a whirl and it sounds quieter and cuts so much cleaner.

Trouble is the sole plate is lower than the blades so when the front sole plate passes the end of the wood being planed, the rear sole plate drops down allowing the cutters to cut deeper.

I know I have to shim the rear sole plate to the height of cutters top dead centre and was wondering what to use.

Any help happily received.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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S'ok guys, just found out the blades don't fit exactly. Had to set them. Good tutorial here
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 07:32 PM
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I had to play with the ones on my Makita a time or two. I don't seem to be able to get them just right with the setting jig every time, especially after touching up the cutting edges.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I've fiddled and fiddled and they're just proud of the sole plate which is what I have read they should be. I still get the slight snipe at the end of a cut but as the planer is to remove larger amounts of material I can live with that, then I can fine finish using my sanders.

Still looking at the new Dewalt D26500K. Looks really nice and as my planer is over 25 years old might just treat myself. Also my current one doesn't have a chippings bag or dust extraction so there's a shed load of wood chips flying around the place to clear up.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 11:26 AM
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Angie, you've figured out it is the blade setting but the sole plates are easy to check. With the toe plate tightened down to be level with the heel plate, a straight edge should sit flat across the entire length of the bottom. The only problem you can have is that the toe plate isn't parallel to the heel plate. The blades should be set to be dead level with the heel plate and that should eliminate the snipe, however, I have also had problems trying to get mine to work decently at this setting. I should note that the machine worked perfectly when it was new with new and sharp blades and only caused problems after multiple sharpenings.

I found a new set of blades for my machine on ebay for $7 at which time I also found out that my machine is one of over 20 that uses the same blades and is made by the same manufacturer in China or Taiwan. The Hitachi model even uses the same 1900B model number and is identical except for the colour.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Charles, I got new blades which, as you say, seem to fit a lot of different planers. My infeed plate is definately not good. It's parallel in the left to right plane but the front is lower than the rear when the rear of the infeed is level with the outfeed plate. Suppose that's not too much of a problem as it still planes flat but I keep looking at that Dewalt. My other half says get it, but he says that to every tool I say I could use

Will see how I get on trying to find a chip bag for it. Apparently the bags are still available but not the fitting so may have to try to make something.....or....I could buy the dewalt
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 06:58 PM
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I see what problem you have and am a little surprised that you have that problem. The two plates should be parallel. I haven't taken that part of mine apart so I don't know how hard or even if it it is possible to shim it straight. (I did have to replace one of the main shaft bearings. C$10 here.) Maybe if you completely unscrew the adjustment handle it will come off and you can make an assessment.
However, it strongly sounds like that one is headed to a yard sale or flea market. Your other half is similar to mine which is a blessing if you love woodworking. My argument is that I need them to make the things she wants but she became skeptical quite a while ago but still lets me have my way within reason. It seems a bit pricey though, almost twice what mine cost even without your roughly 20% VAT.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post
Charles, I got new blades which, as you say, seem to fit a lot of different planers. My infeed plate is definately not good. It's parallel in the left to right plane but the front is lower than the rear when the rear of the infeed is level with the outfeed plate. Suppose that's not too much of a problem as it still planes flat but I keep looking at that Dewalt. My other half says get it, but he says that to every tool I say I could use

Will see how I get on trying to find a chip bag for it. Apparently the bags are still available but not the fitting so may have to try to make something.....or....I could buy the dewalt
I've about given up on the bags that come with Hand-held power planers. I was spending almost as much time emptying the bags as planing. If I'm out on a job, I use a shop vac and hook the hose to it. If in the shop, I hook to my biiger shop vac or to my DC.

The big plus with that was that they run cooler, no bags to empty, they seem to plan better and the blades seem to last longer than way. I guess evac'ing the shavings like that seems to help more than I had thought it could.... just seems to work out good. I first thought to hose would be in the way... but it just seems natural now and I don't even notice it anymore.

Tip on changing blades- I use a little mineral spirits on my blade hub before I change blades, then use a q-tip with mineral spirits in the blade slots when I get the blades out. Pitch and resins seem to accumulate there. The mineral spirits helps loosen and remove that buildup and then the new blades can seat where they should. That seems to help with my bench planer blades also.

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 05:41 AM
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Default powered planer - a solution in search of a problem?

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Originally Posted by MAFoElffen View Post
I've about given up on the bags that come with Hand-held power planers. I was spending almost as much time emptying the bags as planing. If I'm out on a job, I use a shop vac and hook the hose to it. If in the shop, I hook to my biiger shop vac or to my DC.

The big plus with that was that they run cooler, no bags to empty, they seem to plan better and the blades seem to last longer than way. I guess evac'ing the shavings like that seems to help more than I had thought it could.... just seems to work out good. I first thought to hose would be in the way... but it just seems natural now and I don't even notice it anymore.

Tip on changing blades- I use a little mineral spirits on my blade hub before I change blades, then use a q-tip with mineral spirits in the blade slots when I get the blades out. Pitch and resins seem to accumulate there. The mineral spirits helps loosen and remove that buildup and then the new blades can seat where they should. That seems to help with my bench planer blades also.
Could I ask please what are the advantages of a powered hand plane? A jointing machine I get no problem, but I just don't see how having a hand planer powered helps. I'm not trolling here - your mentioning the fact that you take the machine out on jobs is what made me ask.
Thanks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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.....Maybe if you completely unscrew the adjustment handle it will come off and you can make an assessment.
The adjustment screw is fixed from within. It doesn't come off unless I take the whole thing apart

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......However, it strongly sounds like that one is headed to a yard sale or flea market......It seems a bit pricey though, almost twice what mine cost even without your roughly 20% VAT.
That's what I'm thinking, Ebay this one and get a few quid to put towards a new one.

We're used to the prices here. Rip off Britain is just the way it is and no one realises this is the reason very few make anything anymore. It's cheaper to buy ready made. So many Ikea homes here
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