I also remember you having amazing results using wider, true resaw blades to cut your own walnut veneers... So I know you have done that even more accurately than I have.
With as big a job as yours is to change blades on, I too might think twice about changing blades just to make a few short cuts.
I understand that with your band saw, you end up having to take off your table just to change blades. And with the way I know your eyes work, I can see that as being a real challenge. I am thankful that my blades can be changed in my bandsaw with the table still on and it only takes a few minutes. Reading about your adventures with your saw has reminded me to remain humble and to appreciate things.
Just to clear something up about my vision, it in no way has anything to do with changing blades on the saw. The vision issue is just almost impossible to explain. It in no way interferes with 90 percent of what I do in the shop, I just need help when reading a tape measure, reading the marks on the primary scale of Incra TS LS, reading the dial calipers etc.
I'm doing much better in the changing the blades on the saw. The weight of the table causes the removal and reinstallation to be a bit difficult. The real PITA is getting that first bolt started in the bottom of the table that holds it in place on the trunjuns. I don't know how to spell trunjuns but you know what I mean. Once that first bolt is started the other three are no problem, but that first one is a bear for me and the only part that I dislike doing. You are right about the table having to be be removed. I have learned how to quickly adjust the thrust bearing. I can set it by feel and once set check it by turning on the saw and seeing if the bearing is not turning, if it is not turning, I turn the saw off and rotate the wheels check to see that it takes the slightest pressure on the blade for it to engage the bearing and cause it to begin to turn. The guide bearing being are easy to see and any adjustment to them is easy and often not required. The width of differenct blades is of course the reason for having to reset the thrust bearings. Tracking of the blade on the tires is done easily, I do this visually now, I used to use a dial caliper to measure the distance from the edge of the tire to the bottom of the gullet of what ever blade is being installed, but that level of accuracy does not seem to be that critical. The tires on the wheels of the saw by the way are just exactly one inch wide. In regare to blade tenion, I am not real sure yet about how to do it, so I just set it moderately tight, start the saw and slowing tighen the blade until the sound is minimal and smooth, almost quiet except for the sound of the weld. When this is done and and a re-saw attempt is dead on, I call it good. Heck, I don't know if my approach is right or not but it works for me and that is all that counts I suppose. The saw, IMHO is a great saw, but I have no way to compare it with a really high end machine.
So far, I have only used Timber Wolve blades, but would like to try some other brands but right now can't imagine another brand doing a better job, but confess that I am courious..
I recently answered a thread in which Bill asked where I had been, in my post to the question I told about my present project which is part of this thead about re-sawing of the cedar lining. Well there has been some progress on the build and cedar is now installed, I'll attach some photos of the chest and the build on this thread. I have not done the greatest job of installing the cedar lining and will do it differently the next time, so when you see the mis fit of it just remember that I am very aware of the error and my mistakes.