Cuttin With TS Blade Tilted To 45 degrees - Router Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Default Cuttin With TS Blade Tilted To 45 degrees

This tread might be more suitable fot the safety catabory, and if so, well, the moderator will move it.

Here what I'm wondering. somethines a project for a small box will be such that I want to just miter the corners instead of cutting dovetails or box joints. So I crank the blade over to 45 degrees fine tune with a Wixley gauge. So far so good, but here is the rub, the parts are ofter to short to use the miter gauge. This has been where I have very carefully made the cuts by holding the piece being cut hard against the fence while making the cut.

While I'm getting away with it or have so far, it just can't be the safest way to make the cuts. I'm asking for suggestions about another way to make the cuts, and/or is this what everyone else does.

Maybe the way I'm doing this is not as dangerous as I'm thinking, but I know that I'm inviting a kick back and it scares me.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 06:50 PM
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A sled with a fence to the blade, Jerry.

It can only cover one side of the table in need be.

Or an auxiliary fence on the mitre gauge.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 07:06 PM
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sled like James said...
add a hold down...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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O.K., good advise, I have an Incra Express Sled with the miter gauge and fence on it. It is set up to work from the left side of the blade. The MDF that the sled is made of is half inch, I had been of the opinion that the blade would not be able to make the cut. Admittedly a wrong assumption. I sure will give it a try, will have to reverse the set up so it will work from the right side of the blade.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 08:43 PM
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Most miter gauges (at least the Delta) have vertical slots that you can use to attach a sacrificial fence board to via 2 wood screws. This sacrificial board can be any length and is easily removed and replaced simply by loosening or tightening the wood screws. When doing cuts like you are describing I use a miter fence board that extends past the blade and it is high enough that the blade only makes a slit of the blade height and width. Once this slot has been cut it is very easy to align the pieces being cut so that they are cut very accurately

Charley

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
This tread might be more suitable fot the safety catabory, and if so, well, the moderator will move it.

Here what I'm wondering. somethines a project for a small box will be such that I want to just miter the corners instead of cutting dovetails or box joints. So I crank the blade over to 45 degrees fine tune with a Wixley gauge. So far so good, but here is the rub, the parts are ofter to short to use the miter gauge. This has been where I have very carefully made the cuts by holding the piece being cut hard against the fence while making the cut.

While I'm getting away with it or have so far, it just can't be the safest way to make the cuts. I'm asking for suggestions about another way to make the cuts, and/or is this what everyone else does.

Maybe the way I'm doing this is not as dangerous as I'm thinking, but I know that I'm inviting a kick back and it scares me.
,


Jerry
With short pieces you can always use a 45 degree chamfering bit in your router table.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenh View Post
With short pieces you can always use a 45 degree chamfering bit in your router table.
still need a sliding table or extended miter fence...

make an ""L"" shaped carrier for the miter gage tall enough so that blade only kerfs the carrier and the carrier carries the cut off clear of the blade...
an ""L"" shaped carrier is easy to add stops and hold downs to...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 06:02 AM
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Having made a bunch of small boxes as Christmas gifts here is what I did. I cut all miters from the left side.

1. keep blade at 90 degrees not 45.
2. Add small piece of stock to miter gauge appropriate to longest length of box side to allow a stop block to be added.
3. Set miter gauge to 45 degrees, I use a plastic drafting triangle.
4. place box sides vertically on miter gauge and make first cuts. You can clamp box side to miter fence if small.
5. Place stop block at desired size ( length ) and cut the rest of miters.

Remember that this will only work if height of box side doesn't exceed height of saw blade, approximately 3''. This in my opinion, with empirical knowledge, gives excellent straight, square and same length miters and make glue up easy as everything fits well. I also spline the corners for added strength and aesthetics.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 06:59 AM
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I vote and use all the above.

Learning is an exciting adventure
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 09:20 AM
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It fascinates me how many techniques there are to accomplish most operations you need to do in the shop. Here's my 2 cents:

1. Never make a cut you don't feel safe to make.
2. Use a blade guard 100% of the time that it's possible. With your 45* cut, probably not possible.
3. GRR-Ripper is a very good solution for small part cutting on the table saw, I've found.
4. It's always easier to shape a larger piece, and then rip or cut off a small piece that is shaped.
5. Never make a cut you don't feel safe to make.

Henry
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