Kitchen Cabinet Carcase choices - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default Kitchen Cabinet Carcase choices

I thought I would throw this out to the cabinet builders here.

We are fixing to build new cabinets for our kitchen. Originally, I was going to use the prefinished plywood for the base cabinets but now I am having second thoughts.

My wife wants drawers for the base cabinets so that is what I will build. Is there any reason I can't use regular birch plywood from the big orange box store to build the carcases with?

If the cabinet is all drawers, there is nothing to see unless you are a mouse. :-)

Locally, my hardwood store sells domestic prefinished 3/4 birch good one side for about $82 per sheet. The birch from the box store is about $50 for the Columbia Purebond C3 plywood.

I will be using the prefinished stuff for the trash can pull out and the sink base as well as all of the upper cabinets.

Face frames are going to be knotty alder with General Finishes Colonial Maple Gel Stain and Van dyke dark brown glaze. The samples we made up look really nice.

I hope to get started next week. Since we are shooting for Thanksgiving completion, I am going to outsource the doors and drawer fronts. That will be a big time saver.

So what do you think. Is the C3 cabinet birch (in unfinished condition) OK for interior carcase construction if it will not be visible to the public?

Your thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

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Last edited by MT Stringer; 07-31-2014 at 09:39 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 10:22 PM
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Mike
I would spend the money on what you can see,out sight I use mdf, face frames hardwood of choice ( as long as you going farm out the drawers and doors use popular on face frames and Vermeer them ). Most of the big box store order drawer and door and Vermeer from a company in Texas they are shipped directly to your house on a semi on a skit, I use the system and was very happy with it came in very good shape they were well boxed and taken care of.
If you are interested I my be able to find a picture of the cabinets
build this from scratch then reface it
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Mike
I would spend the money on what you can see,out sight I use mdf, face frames hardwood of choice ( as long as you going farm out the drawers and doors use popular on face frames and Vermeer them ). Most of the big box store order drawer and door and Vermeer from a company in Texas they are shipped directly to your house on a semi on a skit, I use the system and was very happy with it came in very good shape they were well boxed and taken care of.
If you are interested I my be able to find a picture of the cabinets
Yes, pics please. Was the cabinet company in Brenham?

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 10:46 PM
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Mike-

You could certainly do it in brich ply, but...

If you live near a city, find a custom cabinet shop,. Tell them you are an amateur woodworker (so they know you are not their competition) and ask them if they know where you can get 4x8 or 4x10 sheets of A1 veneer core plywood.

Veneer core does not have voids. The glue and skins used strong and light... So you get strength, but end up with a cabinet that is lighter weight, which is handy when you go to hang the cabinets. (even lighter weight than normal plywood)

Birch ply, is dense glue and fine dense skins which end up being very heavy for the mass. (Even heavier than normal plywood).

You get Veneer core ply with finish quality veneers on both sides. Very little sanding needed.

Cost varies with the types of veneers it's skinned with, but most are at what you are thinking about from the box stores for one side finished birch ply. I think I get 4'x10' sheets of 3/4" Maple veneer core for about that price.

Of course Veneered MDF Core and Melamine are a fraction on that (about half the cost)... But with mdf core, it is dense, so they end up heavy.

Just ideas.

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 07-31-2014 at 10:52 PM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks but no mdf for me. I hate that stuff...dust everywhere....even with dust collection and air filtration.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:37 PM
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I didn't have good luck with the big orange box's birch plywood, Mike. It may depend on location but the stuff I got had a paper-thin top veneer that tended to rip and peel away. The inner plies looked like ocean waves in places where they overlapped each other and there were many voids. Fortunately I was only building shop cabinets with it and the finish was paint.

In contrast, I'm building a sewing table out of 3/4 oak ply I got at the big blue box and it seems to be okay. Still a few voids, but the inner plies are all flat and the outer veneer, although thin, hasn't been a problem.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:51 PM
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Guess one at a time
This is the cabinet I build from scratch
I only use mdf for sides I do not put back on cabinets anymore, and believe it or not I measure the sides out and have the big box store cut them for me ( no dust)
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:56 PM
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This is number 2
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:57 PM
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Last one
I will have see if I can find the paper work just remember came out of Texas
they furnish the hinges European hidden hinges
They were definitely well packaged and I had no damage on the whole load
The reason I went this way is I could've built the cabinet drawers and fronts but I'm no way I could've put that finish on, I don't have the equipment
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 07:39 AM
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Default Birch for cabinets

Birch plywood from the box store is great for cabinet base. Face frames and draw fronts are made of solid birch. Of course you could use birch edge tape on exposed ply edges
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