Dust Collector Hose for Cleanup - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Default Dust Collector Hose for Cleanup

Does anybody reduce their dust collector down to a relatively small hose for general cleanup around the shop? I'm debating placing an overhead 4" port central in my small shop, to which I can attach a shop vac hose (1.5 or 2" diameter, 15' or so) to pick up misc sawdust that wasn't captured by the DC.

I'm looking at the Dustless Technologies hose and the Bosch hose on Amazon.

I'm just wondering if reducing the 4" down to 1.5-2" hose of any significant length will render the airflow useless.

FYI, I'm a newbie when it comes to DC. I'm just wrapping up a Harbor Freight setup with a Super Dust Deputy separator. I'm keeping ductwork simple... 2 x 4" ports... one for individual tool hookup (tablesaw and router are on wheels, SCMS will have dust collection box nearby) and the other for a floor sweep.

Thanks!
Doug
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDougOut View Post
Does anybody reduce their dust collector down to a relatively small hose for general cleanup around the shop? I'm debating placing an overhead 4" port central in my small shop, to which I can attach a shop vac hose (1.5 or 2" diameter, 15' or so) to pick up misc sawdust that wasn't captured by the DC.

I'm just wondering if reducing the 4" down to 1.5-2" hose of any significant length will render the airflow useless.

Doug
DC's work better w/o a lot of reductions...

the last thing you want to do is use your DC as a shop vac...

all it's going to take is some metal hardware sucked up into the system and you now have a damaged impeller, holes in the collection bag letting more fines get loose, (talk about one step forward and three backwards) damaged hoses, sparks to ignite either the airborne fines or the sawdust it's self, cut filters... and the list goes on...

so ditch that floor pick up..
you evidently have never tried to put out a sawdust fire... sad part it will be well under way before you notice...
heard the arguments but experience rules...
they are convenient though..
Been there and done that...

give the shop vac something to do.. it's job...

all your finals appear to be open at the moment - why no gates...
w/o gates to shut off a lot of the free flow your DC will only show dismal results...
another thing...
make sure sawdust is kept out of your sump or you'll be buying another pump...
make a filter for it...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 09-03-2014 at 10:53 AM.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response!

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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
all your finals appear to be open at the moment - why no gates...
w/o gates to shut off a lot of the free flow your DC will only show dismal results...
The blast gates are located right off the main line, 3" down from the WYEs to minimize dead air behind whichever line is open. I have the end capped off for now with no blast gate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
DC's work better w/o a lot of reductions...
all it's going to take is some metal hardware sucked up into the system and you now have a damaged impeller, holes in the collection bag letting more fines get loose, (talk about one step forward and three backwards) damaged hoses, sparks to ignite either the airborne fines or the sawdust it's self, cut filters... and the list goes on...
so ditch that floor pick up..

you evidently have never tried to put out a sawdust fire... sad part it will be well under way before you notice...
heard the arguments but experience rules...
Been there and done that...
Are heavier objects (metal) more likely to make it though the separator? I've only run some initial collections, and have emptied about 6" or so of material out of the collection can a couple times. With this initial testing, I've had nothing of substance make it to the impeller. My collection bag beneath the filter remains empty (I struggle to find evidence of fines). I see it two ways... if metal makes it to the impeller (which could cause heat/spark), the best place for it to end up is in the collection bag beneath the filter, as it's empty (I vote for hole in bag over fire trucks). If it doesn't make it to the impeller, is there any difference between metal ending up in a garbage can of sawdust vs. a shop vac full of sawdust?

I appreciate the info you're sharing, I'm just trying to fully understand. I've debated an alternative approach... mounting a shop vac and running a 2" pipe to a central location.

Good thinking on the sump pump cover... I'll need to come up with a way to seal the holes.

Thanks again!
Doug
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 11:38 AM
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I have the Bosch VAC005 hose. When connected to a 4 inch port via adapter, the suction is reduced quiet a bit, but it still works for cleaning up sawdust.

Thank goodness for a separator. It finds all of the little things I drop like screws or nuts that just seem to disappear! :-)

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 11:38 AM
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The blast gates are located right off the main line, 3" down from the WYEs to minimize dead air behind whichever line is open. I have the end capped off for now with no blast gate.
sorry.. missed that...

Are heavier objects (metal) more likely to make it though the separator?
No, but smaller chips will and when they tangle w/ the impeller sparks and hot metal flakes are produced...

With this initial testing, I've had nothing of substance make it to the impeller. My collection bag beneath the filter remains empty (I struggle to find evidence of fines).
look inside of the filter...

I see it two ways... if metal makes it to the impeller (which could cause heat/spark), the best place for it to end up is in the collection bag beneath the filter, as it's empty (I vote for hole in bag over fire trucks). If it doesn't make it to the impeller, is there any difference between metal ending up in a garbage can of sawdust vs. a shop vac full of sawdust?
[B]pretty much the same... but why tempt fate or invite Murphy into the shop..
w/ a shop vac nothing ever tangles with the impeller...[B]

I appreciate the info you're sharing, I'm just trying to fully understand. I've debated an alternative approach... mounting a shop vac and running a 2" pipe to a central location. (domestic vac system)
after all these years of playing around to include a serious domestic vac... (the pipe plugging up defeated the system)... the wheeled shop vac w/ a quality smooth bore 12' hose (got it from a janitorial supply house) and assorted nozzles/sweeps won out - again... a big plus was the offset handle that fits the hose

Good thinking on the sump pump cover... I'll need to come up with a way to seal the holes.
a larger than the lid metal framed reinforced HVAC filter pinned/clamped to the floor..
water gets through and the sawdust doesn't


Here's what I have on DC systems...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf D.I.Y. Dust Collection - Installing your Dust System.pdf (67.6 KB, 67 views)
File Type: pdf Dust Collection Ducting.pdf (326.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: pdf Dust Collection Research.pdf (90.3 KB, 87 views)
File Type: pdf Dust Collection System Design.pdf (103.2 KB, 435 views)
File Type: pdf Installing your air handling system.pdf (281.8 KB, 96 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 01:00 PM
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My Festool hose connected to my GI dust collector refuses the flow by a lot . Wouldn't recommend .
Dust right makes a system to keep the size to a 4 inch , but there's the risk of sucking something metal into the impellers . Personally I would build a screen to stop screw drivers etc from possibly being sucked into the system

http://www.rockler.com/dust-right-master-system

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 09-03-2014 at 01:05 PM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
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. Personally I would build a screen to stop screw drivers etc from possibly being sucked into the system
how would a screen work???
wouldn't catch the chips and sawdust too???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 02:05 PM
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When you reduce a 4" down you increase the velocity at the opening but overall airflow is reduced. Once it opens up to 4" velocity drops below what you would have if it had a 4" opening which means some of the debris in the flow may not stay suspended.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 02:24 PM
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By looking at his picture, I feel sure that all but the tiniest dust particles will drop out into the can below his cyclone.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 02:36 PM
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I have a 4" blast gate at my work bench to connect my router to and also connect a 2 1/2" shop vac hose for clean up. Does not have near the suction of my shop vac but does the job & I don't have to start dragging out the shop vac for clean up.

Papa Bob
Using a couple of old Craftsman routers & a Bosch 1617EVSPK & a Dewalt DWP611PK Routers in SW Louisiana.
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