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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default Saw blade question

After 9 years of woodworking (hobbyist) I finally broke down and bought a table saw, the Dewalt DWE7480. It's due in tomorrow. (Lowes screwed up the order-they admitted it-and it's been over a week, but that's another story.) The saw comes with a 10" 24 tooth blade that everyone says is cheap and should be replaced. I'm looking for some advice before I buy another blade or blades. As a note, due to the width of the riving knife, the blade must have a kerf of at least 0.94" so thin kerf blades are out. I would prefer not to replace the riving knife at this time. A reviewer wrote that Freud Diablo and Irwin Marples blades will fit but I'm open to any brand at this point.

For most of my projects I use 4/4 hardwood, and sometimes pine, along with plywood either 1/2 or 3/4 inch thick. Occasionally, I'll rip a 2X4 for something or other. I'd like to get an edge that won't require a lot of additional work to clean it up although I do have a jointer and mounds of sandpaper. My projects will range from jewelry boxes to small tables.

As a hobbyist, the saw won't be used on a daily basis so I'm not looking to spend a lot for a professional blade or blades. With that said, I'm not looking for junk either. Based on what I've said, would you recommend one general purpose blade or should I spring for two blades, one for ripping and one for crosscuts? How many teeth and what tooth configuration? What brands should I look at?

As a newbie to table saws I really appreciate any advice you can give.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry747 View Post
After 9 years of woodworking (hobbyist) I finally broke down and bought a table saw, the Dewalt DWE7480. It's due in tomorrow. (Lowes screwed up the order-they admitted it-and it's been over a week, but that's another story.) The saw comes with a 10" 24 tooth blade that everyone says is cheap and should be replaced. I'm looking for some advice before I buy another blade or blades. As a note, due to the width of the riving knife, the blade must have a kerf of at least 0.94" so thin kerf blades are out. I would prefer not to replace the riving knife at this time. A reviewer wrote that Freud Diablo and Irwin Marples blades will fit but I'm open to any brand at this point.

For most of my projects I use 4/4 hardwood, and sometimes pine, along with plywood either 1/2 or 3/4 inch thick. Occasionally, I'll rip a 2X4 for something or other. I'd like to get an edge that won't require a lot of additional work to clean it up although I do have a jointer and mounds of sandpaper. My projects will range from jewelry boxes to small tables.

As a hobbyist, the saw won't be used on a daily basis so I'm not looking to spend a lot for a professional blade or blades. With that said, I'm not looking for junk either. Based on what I've said, would you recommend one general purpose blade or should I spring for two blades, one for ripping and one for crosscuts? How many teeth and what tooth configuration? What brands should I look at?

As a newbie to table saws I really appreciate any advice you can give.
can't miss w/ the Freuds..

here's some information that you may be able to use...
some of the information is redundant but it doesn't miss much...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BLADE CRITERIA.pdf (345.5 KB, 159 views)
File Type: pdf Cleaning Saw Blades and Router Bits.pdf (139.7 KB, 141 views)
File Type: pdf SAW BLADE HOOK ANGLE.pdf (375.0 KB, 83 views)
File Type: pdf SAW BLADES.pdf (374.9 KB, 105 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 03:09 PM
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Barry,

I would suggest you purchase a blade for ripping and a blade for cross cutting. I owned that saw and I had no problems with freud blades and the riving knife. If you try to use a general purpose blade you'll just be dissatisfied with the results and will end up buying additional blades.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 03:47 PM
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Phillip and Stick are right.

I use a 60 tooth Freud, a great all purpose blade that is worth the money yo re-sharpen.

Enjoy your saw!

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 06:38 PM
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Barry I'm not familiar with that saw but one thing to consider is that the more teeth the blade has the more power is required to turn it. The fastest cutting blade you will find is around 18 tooth. I have a full kerf 24 tooth Freud that is is glue line capable but I also have 3hp to turn it with. Full kerf usually means .125 or .126" kerf. A thin kerf blade is close to the splitter size you mentioned but they do take less power. Another option for faster ripping speed is to go down to an 8.5 or 9" blade but depth of cut suffers.

More teeth will usually mean a smoother cut as well as negative rake. You can buy a blade for cutting melamine and it does a pretty good job of crosscutting as a rule. Watch out when buying fine toothed blades. Some are only designed for a 1" depth of cut. I ruined one once when I was a noob trying to cut deeper.

You can learn a bit by going to someone like Forrest's site and looking at the chart of what their various blades are recommended for. Their blades are supposed to be the best but I've had very good luck with Freud blades. The very best blades I've come across, at least in terms of sharpness, are Onsrud's but I'm not sure if they are making them anymore.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 07:18 PM
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I suppose that the issue of blades falls into the category of "What You Don't Know About, You Can't Miss".

I started my interest in wood working five years ago and purchase a couple of combination full kerf Forrest blades, they were recommended to me by Mark Mueller of Incra Tools.

I have tried some thin kerf Freud Bllades along the way. I have used all of them for both cross cuts and ripping and, I have to say that in my inexperience I see no difference in the way any of the blades cut for me. The cross cuts and the rips are satisfactory for a person like me that doesn't know the difference or what results I should expect.

The expression "ignorance is bliss" is probably applicable here.

I recently had one of the Forrest blades re-sharpened, after betting it back from Forrest it cut just like it did before I sent it in to be re-worked, it needed three teeth replaced, but it was still cutting just fine in my opinion which is not a very sophistigated opinion.

As anybody knows that reads my threads and posts on this forum, they know that I am not afraid to show my lack of understanding about things that are just common sense to most people, but man do I get a great education from members that gracefully attempt to set me straight. So, I'm waiting to hear what is going to be said about my observation of the cutting results that I have described.

This may cost me some money once I am more savvy about what I should be looking for in a blade. To me as long as the cut is straight and does not burn as long the feed rate is constant and reasonable, I'm happy as a clam. I will say that I do experience burning when I get overly careful and feed slower than I should, but that is my fault I suppose, but maybe not, heck, I don't know.

Jerry
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 07:48 AM
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Hi Barry, I don't think you want a blade that is .94". That is almost an inch. I have Freud, Tenryu and Forrest. All do great jobs. Malcolm / Kentucky USA
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 08:19 AM
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If you are doing a lot of smaller wood size (jewelry boxes) projects and are not depth limited I would suggest you go to the thin 7 1/4 blades available at most box stores. Freud are as good as any. These blades are only 1/16 inch wide and result in a very smooth cut with little waste and low power requirement.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 08:29 AM
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Barry, use the stock blade until it dulls on you, then replace it. When I bought my Rigid, that was the common complaint, the stock blade is junk. Iirc, it was a 40 tooth combination. I used it to cut a lot of wood and was satisfied with it. I have since replaced it with a 50 tooth Freud combination blade. Yes, there was a HUGE difference. Now, I'm not blessed with 3hp like Charles is, but the Freud cuts great on a lower powered saw.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 08:47 AM
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Barry,
I have Freud blades for laminate and veneer work. I use Forrest Woodworker II for general cutting. I have a 40 tooth in the TS and an 80 tooth in the cutoff saw.

Basically, a tool is an object that enables you take advantage of the laws of physics and mechanics in such a way that you can seriously injure yourself - Dave Barry
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