Saw marks in my cuts, my fault?, blade's fault?, saw's fault?, no idea... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Default Saw marks in my cuts, my fault?, blade's fault?, saw's fault?, no idea...

Hi, I'm kind of new to WW and after a while I started to wonder.. why do all my cuts have saw marks?, I attached some of them to illustrate better.

My blade is the one that comes as default with the DW745 (my saw), it is a 24 teeth blade).

Could it be that I'm doing something wrong?, I can't seem to avoid producing these marks on the wood, sometimes it doesn't matter, but other times I'd like to have a smoother cut.

P.S: doesn't seem to matter if my cut is cross grain or along the grain, I got the same result.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 07:01 PM
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HI, just my 2 cents worth....

I would only use a 24 tooth blade for rough work like on a mitre saw.

You may need a blade with more teeth, if you can get one.

I am surprised that DW had that as a default blade on a table saw. See if you can get a 40 tooth general purpose blade.

Also, just a thought, slow down the feed rate slightly so the teeth get more time to act?

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemix View Post
Hi, I'm kind of new to WW and after a while I started to wonder.. why do all my cuts have saw marks?, I attached some of them to illustrate better.

My blade is the one that comes as default with the DW745 (my saw), it is a 24 teeth blade).

Could it be that I'm doing something wrong?, I can't seem to avoid producing these marks on the wood, sometimes it doesn't matter, but other times I'd like to have a smoother cut.

P.S: doesn't seem to matter if my cut is cross grain or along the grain, I got the same result.
blame the blade 1st and the saw 2nd...
get a better blade and get fussier w/ the saw set up...
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I will, I never did any kind of adjustment or verification to the saw/blade, I will start looking into it. I hope there is nothing wrong with the saw , blades.. I can get another one.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 08:29 PM
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For the past 2 years I have been using an Irwin Marples blade on my table saw. Actually, it has been on two different saws. It has 50 teeth and is used for ripping and cross cutting. Not very expensive either. I got it at one of the big box stores but I have since forgot which one.

Anyway, you should get pretty smooth cuts with it.

Good luck.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 08:40 PM
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If you are using can be a reducing bushing.
Reduction bushing cause fluctuations in the blade.

Best use blade with hole 5/8-Inch.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 08:49 AM
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Blade makes all the diffeerence, and, I would check the alignment of the fence with the blade. If you've never checked it, it is likely out of adjustment.

Less likely, but I'd check it out anyhow, check that the blade is aligned with the miter slot. Look up how to measure run out, which is a small wobble in the blade as it rotates. Clean the arbor and the surfaces that touch the blade before you check runout. You'll need some sort of gauge to get it exactly right.

This is in part what Stick was speaking about when he said be fussy with your setup. If you don't have a Wixey to check blade angle, I'd get one. Learning to be fussy about all these things Stick was pointing out changed the quality of my work considerably. Last year I replaced my old Delta contractor saw with a Laguna Fusion, and the difference in what it produces and what I had is amazing.

As for blades: For ripping I use a Freud LM74R010 10-Inch 30 Tooth TCG Glue Line Ripping Saw Blade, about $ 75 on Amazon. Smooth as the proverbial baby's behind. For fine cross cutting, I have an 80 tooth Freud blade that is particularly good on flat goods.

For general use, I mount the Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade. Versatile blade makes clean cuts. I'm all Freud because the HD is the nearest store. Have also been thinking of trying an Irwin Marple blade, but good blades cost plenty and I'm happy with the Freuds mentioned.

Tuning up your tools takes some time, but the difference it makes is worthwhile learning how to do it. Caution, woodworking with well tuned tools is addicting.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:17 AM
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Be particular with your set up, certainly. It doesn't matter what blade you are using if the set up isn't square. Then....

Throw away the standard blade and upgrade. I use the Woodworker II from Forrest Manufacturing for all of my cuts. I have 2 of them: when one is dull, it returns to the factory for sharpening. I then take the sharpened one off of the shelf and install it ... until the process repeats.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:19 AM
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I second Stick
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:26 AM
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Make it a 40 tooth carbide tipped or even 60 tooth and check fence alignment
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