Rust Removal From My Table Saw TOP - Router Forums
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Default Rust Removal From My Table Saw TOP

Never let someone barrow your table saw. I have a nearly new saw, and I made the a fore mentioned mistake. The saw top now has a bit of rust on it. It is cast iron. I have read several articles and noted many products are listed. This is my question. Years a go while still farming, we had plow shears that would rust if not protected. We put Coke Syrup on these shears. It removed as well as protected the shears from rust.

I realize this is going to be a bit sticky, but I just wondered if any one else has ever used this on a saw table top. It will clean off very quickly with vinegar. I do not want to put something on the top that is going to create more damage. It looks like the rust is not deep and will clean with elbow grease and a rust remover. Thanks, any thoughts are welcome.

Tagwatts1 from Utah
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 04:03 PM
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Frank
I think I would stick to elbow grease, then paste wax the top and keep it out of the weather
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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagwatts1 View Post
Never let someone barrow your table saw. I have a nearly new saw, and I made the a fore mentioned mistake. The saw top now has a bit of rust on it. It is cast iron. I have read several articles and noted many products are listed. This is my question. Years a go while still farming, we had plow shears that would rust if not protected. We put Coke Syrup on these shears. It removed as well as protected the shears from rust.

I realize this is going to be a bit sticky, but I just wondered if any one else has ever used this on a saw table top. It will clean off very quickly with vinegar. I do not want to put something on the top that is going to create more damage. It looks like the rust is not deep and will clean with elbow grease and a rust remover. Thanks, any thoughts are welcome.


Frank,

I think that the Coke Syrup would work just fine in that it would keep air and mositiure from coming into contact with the cast iron. The problem however would be adding it and removing it on a regular basis, but for long term strorage it should work. In many cases however one's TS is used on such a regular basis that the syrup removeable every few days or so would get to be a real pain in my opinion.

A year or so ago a tornado took part of the roof off the tin building that my shop tools are in. Everything was drenched and all of the cast iron tables turned to solid rust. At first I was horrified. Then I realized that the rust probably was only surface rust as the time element was short. Sooooo I took a chance and put some 220 grit paper on my palm sander, didn't own a ROS at that time. I then put a liberal coat of WD 40 on the cast iron surfaces and went for it, the surface rust came off alright, it took some time but the surfaces on the TS, BS and jointer looked like brand new after a fashion and I was able to breath easy again.

A short time later I was advised to wax the cast iron with Johnson's wax, which really id work well for me as far as being able to easlly wipe off any dirt and grim that settled on the surfaces.

I have used up most of that first can of wax and it has almost turned to a liquid, probably due tot he heat in the shop during the summer. It no longer has the effect on the cast iron as it did, it's time to buy a new can of wax and I will do that soon.

I do try to keep the cast iron covered with some sort of cloth sheets when the tools are not in use, this minimizes the grit and grim from accumulating, and the surfaces are easily wiped clean or the air hose will blow what little grit may have settled even with the coverings in place. My shop is in a relatively dirty environment, farm land all around and lots of wind here in West Texas.

You will probably get several good answers to your thread, most of which will be more sophisticated than mine, I'm just relating my personal experience for what it's worth.

Do let us know how things come out, I doubt if your TS is going to be hurt much from the rust on it's table.

Jerry
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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 04:31 PM
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I personally use Johnson paste wax a green scrubby maybe some steel wool with an application of WD40 at the start gets most if not all rust out. Just keep in mind if you have cast iron you will have rust its just a matter of when......

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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 04:31 PM
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One of our members tried Trend Tool and Bit cleaner and said it worked well. Vinegar is acetic acid and Coke syrup is phosphoric acid so I personally would avoid using either one.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 05:45 PM
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Chuck; why? Phosphoric acid is a very common agent for removing rust prior to painting steel. I've used it and it works like a charm. However, having said that, there are certainly more user friendly products; I've started using Autosol in the past couple of years and I love the stuff!
Halfords Autosol Metal Polish 75g Customer Ratings & Reviews - Top & Best Rated Products
It leaves a protective layer (wax?) on the surface that seems to protect for a long time after application.
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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 06:19 PM
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Rust Free and T9 from Boshield. Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

Rust Free is a very mild acid, when needed for flash rust (i live near Lake Michigan, unheated/un-air conditioned garage), i apply with a Scotch Bright pad and wipe off quickly. The T9 is a protectant that keeps the rust away the vast majority of the time so i don't need the Rust Free very often. Unlike carbonated beverages, it's slick after putting it on. I prefer the T9 to wax just because it's a liquid spray that can be wiped on with no build-up.

I do use the Trend Bit & Blade Cleaner for cleaning bits and blades, awesome stuff for its intended purpose. I think the T9 could be used after cleaning those, but i never have. I clean saw blades and router bits regularly, and I'm always amazed at how much pitch comes off after cutting not much hardwood.

Your mileage may vary.

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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 07:02 PM
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There is a very small amount of acid in Coke and similar products which is why it will clean copper coins etc.

I would stick with the common cleaning agents.

For small areas, I use WD40 and elbow grease.

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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 07:09 PM
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+1 what James said.

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 07:58 PM
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A paste made from "Bar Keepers Friend" and "WD-40", a green "Scotch-brite" pad and an orbital sander will do wonders to clean the rust off. Wipe the residue completely off and then apply a light coat of just WD-40. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe the excess off. Let the saw sit overnight before proceeding.

Then apply "Butchers" or "Johnsons" paste wax after the top has been completely cleaned off. You can also use the paste wax applied with a toothbrush to the gears and ways under the table. It makes a great lubricant that develops a crust when it dries that repels sawdust and prevents it from building up on these parts. Your saw will be easy to clean and adjust for several years. Re-wax the top whenever your wood doesn't seem to slide across the saw easily or whenever you clean the saw.

Charley

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