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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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I live in the uk , & can not find a supplier of titebond hpl glue to laminate a kitchen worktop, titebond 3 is widely on sale, has any body made a kitchen worktop by gluing a plastic laminate sheet to waterproof plywood & how long has it lasted, many thanks if you reply.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 02:46 PM
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Jonathon; my old (time not age) cabinet supplier used to do his own laminating of his cabinet material. He'd buy a lift of 4 x 8 MDF and then he and his shop guys would use a paint roller and a 5 gallon bucket of woodglue (Weldbond as I recall) to glue and layout a sheet of laminate on it. They'd then flip it over onto a finished pile, glue the other side, slap down another sheet of laminate on that side. They'd then place the next sheet of MDF on top and start again. Didn't really take all that long to do the whole stack.
I certainly never had any complaints from clients over delamination, so I'm guessing it worked fairly well. As for glue, it'll outlast me. I'm right now looking at a tray I built in woodwork shop in 1962...edge-glued mahog. and some-white-wood...as sound as the day it was assembled!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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I will try it, is weldbond a pva white or yellow glue, in the uk the name is not known. I am going to copy paul levine making kitchen cabinets worktop with a maple hardwood front edge
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 07:39 PM
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I use Titebond III for gluing cork rings for custom fishing rods. Never had any trouble. Also, I use it for woodworking. Just finished a wood pet gate- works great.

John T.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 08:16 PM
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Jonathon; Weldbond is a PVA glue.
Here's a discussion I found on the subject...
PVA Glue for P-lam?
What I got from that is that PVA is excellent for High Pressure Laminate.
And no fire hazard!!!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-23-2014, 06:52 AM
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in the industry in ny area we used a contact cement
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-23-2014, 10:38 AM
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I have an uncle who has used Weldbond before. He used it like contact cement, put a thin layer on each surface and let it dry a bit til tacky and then pressed the laminate down and rolled it. I can't remember if he clamped it down after though.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-23-2014, 11:29 AM
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cptjack; the attraction of (sorry, no pun intended)contact cement, either solvent or waterbourne, is that you don't need to clamp it. Roll it into contact and that's pretty much it. Not so for the PVA.
Wilsonart has this info on their PVA...
High Pressure Decorative Laminate:
- Follow the glue spreader manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Use a dual durometer roller (Black Bros. A2158, 16 x Ĺ” pattern).
- Apply adhesive at 6-8 wet mils with glue spreader.
- Open time: 5 minutes
- Closed time: 20 minutes
- Press time: 30-60 minutes @ 40-50 psi (at 70 ̊F, 45%RH)
- Allow one hour before light machining, 12-24 hours for heavy
machining

http://www.wilsonart.com/docs/defaul...e.pdf?sfvrsn=6
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-24-2014, 04:26 AM
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Hi I get my Titebond from axminster.co.uk
Stew
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-25-2014, 02:54 PM
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Re Titebond;
Has anybody tried their new Titebond Neoprene Plus?
Titebond - Product

I had recently noticed it in the October flyer from KMS Tools (Canadian).
$18 for what I assume is a quart can...no size mentioned in the advert(?).
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