So the fifties? Not really that much of a concern, if the motor is still strong (or not).
Looking at something from that era (postwar-1960), besides what I mentioned before... Look at the windings of the motor, If shellacked insulation, make sure it it not cracked nor checked excessively. If it was used every so often, then probably not a problem. If it sat for a very long time, then it may be. That may cause shorting in the windings. I always check that on older iron.
If it sat for ages, then it may have a vibration from a set in the drive belt... just from sitting on one position for a long time. That may go away just from it running for awhile (and the belt heating up or running long enough to be pliable again)... or you may decide to replace it. If it were me, I would replace it anyways. Especially if original. Old iron always seems smoother with a new belt, and it will be a known baseline that you know is good to start from (with your use).
Even if that old, the brushes could be found if it needed them. I would check that, once you get it home, while you are tuning the saw... Belts and bearings can still be found. As long as the mechanisms are not worn out. You are not paying for a collectors item, but for a tool... so you may be able to get a great deal with that.
You may end up deciding to upgrade the fence, but anything would adapt to that. It's a common full-sized table (27" deep, 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots)... and has nothing out of the ordinary (no surprises there). Other fences and table extension wings will work with that. You may want to look at adapting an overhead crown and splitter to it. I had to look at that for my old Rockwell. That part of safety was before that was a big thought, like it is today. I also had to look at how to adapt it to to a DC system.
If it fits what you are looking for and what you want to do... I feel like you found a good perspective deal. You just need to understand that hard parts would not be available from General... But that is not a bad thing. You just need to be creative with that part.
Any new (to me) saw, or after moving a big saw, I check and/or tune that saw.(++) Always good to start with things at a known point. Even if the tune was good when you looked at it, things can shift while being moved. A good cabinet saw will keep that tune for a long time. Things don't shift like other saws... but moving one across town could cause it to. I have a couple threads on that here.
Notes: ++ I even do a quick-check on my jobsite saws and miter saws after moving from jobsite to jobsite, and then all my saws at the start of a day. That quick-check only takes less than a minute... That just invokes cutting a piece of scrap with the blade set at 90* at 90* across. Then flip one piece over and put the kerf's together. The edges should look as if it had not been flipped== Edges still continue straight on all planes & the quality of the cut on both sides of the kerf.
"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
Last edited by MAFoElffen; 11-02-2014 at 10:51 AM.