recommend a new blade for my miter saw! - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Default recommend a new blade for my miter saw!

hey guys,

I am about to purchase a new table saw in the next month or two but need to finish a few projects before then. I need to make some (semi-precise) cuts on some expensive ribbon mahogany (that i dont wanna screw up) for jewelry boxes. I might be able to get more precision and a better cut out of my sliding miter saw than my bandsaw but definately will need a new blade. Which brand (i was leaning toward Freud) and tooth count blade should i get? Right now i just have the stock bosch 40T blade that came with the saw which needs to be tossed anyway for a new one. Im sure ill have to sand some off either way. Thanks, jonathan
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 11:40 AM
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Forrest blades are really good. Most Freuds are good too. I have a glue line capable rip blade from Freud but it is heavy kerf. You will want a negative hook on a miter blade and 60 tooth minimum for good results I would say.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 12:15 PM
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Forrest blades are really good. Most Freuds are good too. I have a glue line capable rip blade from Freud but it is heavy kerf. You will want a negative hook on a miter blade and 60 tooth minimum for good results I would say.
+1. It's also helpful to add a zero-clearance top to the table. You can make one easily by just attaching a piece of 1/4" mdf with double-sided tape.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 12:48 PM
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Oliver , I think you will find the OP intends using his mitre saw for this project .....


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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 01:15 PM
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Roger--i think that Oliver was referring to adding a temporary zero clearance on the miter saw. Tape a piece of 1/4" thick flat stock to the table (mdf is usually very flat), and another piece to the back fence. When i do it, my next step is to lay a piece of scrap 2" x 4" stock on the saw, make a cut to slice through the mdf. Doing this leaves a kerf that i can line up with my pencil mark, and cut with minimal visible tear-out on exit.

Works great.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 01:34 PM
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Roger--i think that Oliver was referring to adding a temporary zero clearance on the miter saw. Tape a piece of 1/4" thick flat stock to the table (mdf is usually very flat), and another piece to the back fence. When i do it, my next step is to lay a piece of scrap 2" x 4" stock on the saw, make a cut to slice through the mdf. Doing this leaves a kerf that i can line up with my pencil mark, and cut with minimal visible tear-out on exit.

Works great.

earl
Yes, Earl, that's what I was suggesting. It reduces tear-out and makes it easier to line up your cuts. The attached shows what I did on my saw. The sandpaper helps me control the small pieces I've been cutting.
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Size:	57.5 KB
ID:	75001  


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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet idea, never thought of that ..and minimizes tear out, perfect!
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 03:08 PM
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Got it , thanks .

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 05:35 AM
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Jonathan, I have a freud blade on an old Rockwell (possibly the original) miter saw. The blade is at least 25 years old and now needs to be re-sharpened for the first time. Even being dull the blade still produces BABY BUT SMOOTH CUTS! Gary.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by flitemedic13 View Post
hey guys,

I am about to purchase a new table saw in the next month or two but need to finish a few projects before then. I need to make some (semi-precise) cuts on some expensive ribbon mahogany (that i dont wanna screw up) for jewelry boxes. I might be able to get more precision and a better cut out of my sliding miter saw than my bandsaw but definately will need a new blade. Which brand (i was leaning toward Freud) and tooth count blade should i get? Right now i just have the stock bosch 40T blade that came with the saw which needs to be tossed anyway for a new one. Im sure ill have to sand some off either way. Thanks, jonathan
can't go wrong w/ the Freud...
excellent bang for the buck...
don't forget that miter saws want negative hook angles...

Freud Tools
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BLADE CRITERIA.pdf (345.5 KB, 54 views)
File Type: pdf SAW BLADE HOOK ANGLE.pdf (375.0 KB, 49 views)
File Type: pdf SAW BLADES.pdf (374.9 KB, 50 views)

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