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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2014, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Default Short Arbor Problem

You may recall that when I bought my box joint cutter set, I discovered that the round part of the arbor on my table saw was too short to accept both blades without the outer blade dropping down onto the threads of the arbor and making a cut that was higher on one side of the slot than the other.

Apparently, I'm not the only one who has run into this. This video is how one person corrected the problem. I'm not going to do this because I decided to set up a smaller saw as a dedicated box joint unit. But if you have this problem and don't have another saw to use, it could be the difference of being able to use your cutter set or not. It is also advisable to measure the available arbor space on your saw before you buy the cutter set.

Notice in the video both the short space available for blades, and how the cut looked when that was the situation. It looks exactly like the results I got when trying to cut the slot on that particular saw. Jim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaY09wyS6Vg
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2014, 12:03 PM
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I have this issue with my old contractor saw. Does this cause problems when using a non dado blade? Not allowing the blade to be tightened?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2014, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like it might. You'd probably have to use an extra spacer washer of some kind for single blade use. I hadn't thought of that yet.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2014, 01:30 PM
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I have never seen one, but I heard it through the grapevine that some table saws are not designed for dado blade use. Is that the case here?

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have never seen one, but I heard it through the grapevine that some table saws are not designed for dado blade use. Is that the case here?
It may be, Mike. I inherited this Craftsman from my Dad. Amongst the paraphernalia that was with it was a dado throat plate, but it may be something he bought without knowing if he could use it.

That's an interesting question. I may be able to find out, so I can warn others.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Update: apparently there are some Ridgid models out there that have the same problem. Maybe Ridgid built them for Craftsman.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 03:17 PM
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Yes Ridgid builds some of the Craftsman saws.
My Bosch is set up for dadoing with the freud box cutter blade,and I don't have a problem with it. On my 10" old craftsman TS, The thin shims on the dado set would fall into the threads though and I would have trouble tightening the blades. SO I had to use a thin scotch tape and tape them in place. On my current 12" craftsman I don't seem to have that problem.
I use the dado for the larger box joints.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Herb. I'll keep that in mind. And to Dave: I just heard back from the guy who posted the youtube video, and he said that after he had done the alteration, he realized that all he would have had to fill was the groove in the arbor shaft. He had to clean the threads, but then with the groove filled, he had enough surface for the Freud cutters to seat properly. Jim
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 09:55 PM
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Thanks for the PM heads up, and the info.
I want to purchase a dado blade but am uncertain whether and 8" is sufficient or if I should by the 10". Anyone have an thoughts?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the PM heads up, and the info.
I want to purchase a dado blade but am uncertain whether and 8" is sufficient or if I should by the 10". Anyone have an thoughts?
how deep do want to go???
99% of dado cuts are covered well by a 6"...
not many do the 10"...

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