Wordsmith shop thin rip guide - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Default Wordsmith shop thin rip guide

Herb's thread got me researching thin rip guides...

I found this and am a bit confused by the instructions...

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...rippingjig.pdf

The instructions call for 1/4 20's to be used to spread the slotted 3/4. To prevent the piece from splitting it calls for 3/16 holes at the ends of the slots...

Shouldn't the hole at the end of a slot be slightly bigger than the slot rather than smaller...?

thanks

Nick

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 01:34 PM
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Default Good Jig

I built this jig a year or so ago so I don't remember the hole details but let me say that it works beautifully. I use it a lot for shelf edging and for creating thin accent strips used in checkerboards and other applications.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 04:52 PM
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Hi Nick, looking at the plans, my guess is the hole is 3/16" but the slot is the width of the saw blade?

The screw head being drawn up spreads the runner to lock it in place.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 05:09 PM
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I went out to the shop and looked at mine and cannot see that the dimension of the hole at the end of the slot is critical. Mine seems to be close to the quarter inch. The flat head screw rests in a countersink in the slot and, when tightened, spreads the sides in the track securing the jig. As I said, it works great. I had a tough time finding the bearing but eventually found it on line.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, Ron and James...but forgetting this guide, and in general, shouldn't the hole at the end of a slot be larger, or at least the same size as the slot to prevent splitting...? It seems odd for it to be smaller... I see that the screws are not likely to spread it enough to split it while in the miter slot...

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 05:45 PM
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If the slot is 1/8", than the hole is larger?

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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In the plans the screw is 1/4 20...that's why I thought it was odd for the plans to call for a 3/16 hole...if it were 1/8 it would seem right for the hole to be 3/16...maybe I read it wrong...will take another peek...thanks, James...

Nick

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 09:14 PM
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James is right, the slot is a saw cut width,I used Bandsaw blade width, a 1/4"-20 flat head bolt ,the taper for the bolt head acts as the wedge, it can't split,it is only spreading the wooden bar 1/32" to tighten it in the saw table slot. There shouldn't be more than 1/32" clearance in the slot and less if possible.

You can use any bearing, a bandsaw guide bearing works, even an old used one that still turns.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Herb...helpful to know to use the saw blade to make the slot...

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 07:56 PM
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The 3/16" hole at the end of the slot is a "stop" hole.

The rounded end of the slot will be less likely to split when you tighten the star knob to lock the jig in place. The hole is not that critical (I think) as long as it is not smaller than the saw kerf. If it is, then there will be a flat spot from the saw cut that could cause the saw kerf to continue on as a split.

This same idea is used in plastics and other materials. If a tear or crack occurs, it can be stopped from continuing by making a round hole at the end of the tear or crack.
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