An Interesting Visit With A Lenox Band Saw blade Rep
First some background on the subject at hand. I had purchased a Lenox Tri Master BS blade for my saw last fall along with a Bi Metal blade. If you happen to not be familier with the Tri Master Lenox blade, it is a blade with carbide tipped teeth and sells for about $180, which I will be the first to admit is way over kill for a hobbyist like myself, I just got a wild hair as they say and went a little bit overboard.
I had installed the blade and used it on and off for a couple of months. One day a few weeks ago the blade broke, I was not cutting with it when it let go, but the saw was running, I had walked away for it for a few minutes and not turned it off as I was planning on coming right back to it and do some more cutting with it.
So the first thing I did was to phone Lenox direct to talk to them about repairing the blade and was told that if the blade broken at the weld that it was warrantied, but I would have to go back through the dealer that I had bought the blade from to get help with the matter.
So I phoned the dealer on a Monday and was told that they they would be in touch with Lenox and would get back to me as to what Lenox wanted me to do. Well in just a few days a new replacement blade arrived. So I phoned the dealer again and asked them what was going on, and again was told that they would get back to me, I waited for two weeks and heard nothing.
In the mean time I located a different dealer in Fort Worth, Texas about having the blade repaird. Actually I was just looking for a shop to to the repair since I was not getting any verbal response from the dealer. The name of the company in Fort Worth is Delta Industries and after contacting them I learned that they are also a Lenox dealer and that they would do the repair for me at no cost if I didn't get any satisfaction from the dealer that I had bought the blade from.
After receiving the second blade I waited for two weeks and phoned the original dealer again and was told told again that they would get back to me, but again, they did not and so I phoned again and was told that the girl that was working the issue was not at work yet when I phoned. However, the person that I did talk to and myself did pretty muh agreed that I would be getting a return Lable from UPs to just have the broken blade returned.
With all of that said for background information, I got a phone call from a Lenox field rep yesterday on the matter and was told to just keep both blades. He was pretty certain the break in the weld was due to a defective weld in the first place.
He and I went on to visit and he told me that that both the Tri Master Carbide blade and their Bi Metal Blade, which by the way I had purchased too, were used on metal cutting Band Saws as well as on saws like my wood cutting saw. Thus the reason for the high price of the blades. The Bi Metal blade cost a hundred dollars by the way.
The rep told me that there is no way that I could put enough pressure on the blades with my 17" Grizzly BS to hurt the blades, but I can put enough pressure on the blades to hurt the wheel bearings of the saw. He also told me that this is the reason to take the tension off of the blade when the saw is not being used, I didn't know that.
He told me that he would try to stop by and visit with me this coming spring when he is in the area and might be able to give me some tips on setting up the saw.
By the way, he had never heard of Alex Snodgrass and his instructions for setting up a saw and seemed interested in the conept of setting the gullet of the blade at the top of the tire as Alex described. Maybe he was just being polite which by the way all of the people with Lenox have been.
Soooo, for what it's worth, that has been my experience with Lenox BS blades.
I did purchase a couple 3/8" blades from the dealer in Fort Worth to use for scrolling, as the Tri Master Blade is supposed to be used for straight cuts only. By the way the Tri Master blade is a Three TPI blade and the Bi Metal is a four. I think that he 3/8" blades are tens. The 3/8" blades were relative enexpensive at about twelve dollars each. The Fort Worth dealer is going to repair the original blade for me at no cost so I am going to be knee deep in BS blades.
Glad to hear there is good customer service out there! Can't wait to hear about your visit if he stops by your shop in the spring.
Good to know ,I just bought 3 of those blades for resawing.
Oops, maybe I didn't get the same ones. I remember I was looking at them,along with others, but here is what I have.
They were only 24.50 for 108" length.
Message edited to remove picture at poster request.
No, probably not the same ones but I bet that the ones you got will work just fine.
Let us know how they work for you, O.K.?
Jerry.....it's nice to hear that you had a good experience with them. Too many companies seem to have adopted the motto "The customer is always wrong", and I think it has made most of us a little gun-shy about lodging a complaint or question. Please do let us know how the visit goes. Jim
When I bought some Tri Master blades a number of years back the rep actually delivered them to my shop because they were pretty rare in the UK at that time (still are) and he wanted to see why a woodworker was buying carbide-tipped sawblades. These blades were/are generally only sold to the people who break-down aluminium engine blocks for scrap or saw-up aluminium or dural billets into chunks for the aerospace industries over here (partly cost, partly that few woodworkers know about them). One of his concerns was that because the blades are relatively thick against standard bimetallic or carbon steel blades I wouldn't be able to get enough tension on them - and they cut a lot more smoothly if they are correctly tensioned. Fortunately they were going onto a large bandsaw (28in wheels) and it could give me the right tension, as read by a Starrett tension gauge, but he did warn me about taking the tension off when the saw isn't in use. If you don't you can bend the frame of the machine (at least with fabricated steel machines - the older solid cast iron saws are better), you can also put flats on the tyres which makes for vibrations and the bearing life will be unduly shortened if they are kept under pressure the whole time. I tried the 1in and 1-1/4in blades in fixed pitch and variable pitch - the vari pitch was great for ripping hardwood veneers. Lenox struck me as being very good on customer service - the rep made the delivery despite the order being placed through an agent - and he periodicaly used to contact me to see how they were working
Phil, my question is about the tension. I am finding that my blade does not require anymore tension than a normal BS blade and cuts fine. By fine I mean that my re-saw cuts are clean a perfectly straight. I see no reason for excdssive tension so far, let me know what you find out about he tension on your saw.
I talked at length to a tech support person at Lenox before buying the blade and was never told that the blade was primarily designed for cutting metal.
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