Only One Miter Lock Setting - Router Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Default Only One Miter Lock Setting

I'm rather slow about somethings, but I just realized that there is only one vertical miter lock bit setting. The height of the bit must be set in accordance to the the thickness of the material that the cut is to be made in, but the position of the fence, is the same no matter what the thickness of the material is, I think.

The Infinity set up gauge moves up and down with the bit when it is being raised or lowered with th hash mark for the fence setting on a constant vertical plane. Thus with the Incra LS set up a reference on the primary scale of the carriage can be set at a specifie setting so that the fience can be correctly set by referencing the pre-recorded mark on the scale on the carriage. Once done the set up gauge need not be used again.

If a person has a router lift such as the Incra or Jessem, goth are the same lift of course, that allows the height to be set precisely, the hash mark for height on the Infinity set up gauge can be used to simply raise the bit until it, the mark, matches the surface of the insert ring in the router lift plate.

From that point on, you do no longer need the gauge. Each turn of the crank raises the bit .0625". A piece of material that is 3/8" thick has a mid point of of 3/16", and three turns of the crank raises the bit 3/16", 1/2" material requires four turns, 5/8" material requires five turns, 3/4" material six turns.


Now all of this is marveliousy theoretical as I write this, and will have to be tested to verify if my thinking is correct. I'll get back to report on it if the concept works or not in the real world, but I thnk that I am right.

I thought that I made a mistake one time but found out later that I was wrong. "Joke"

Jerry B.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 08:32 AM
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Jerry, you're making what, with the Infinity gauge is a simple procedure sound incredibly complex, enough to put newcomers off ever attempting lock mitre joints which you have previously made on the chest that you made. It is a wonderful joint, a bit tricky at first with several test cuts needed but with that gauge it becomes a simple easy set-up.

Harry



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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by harrysin View Post
Jerry, you're making what, with the Infinity gauge is a simple procedure sound incredibly complex, enough to put newcomers off ever attempting lock mitre joints which you have previously made on the chest that you made. It is a wonderful joint, a bit tricky at first with several test cuts needed but with that gauge it becomes a simple easy set-up.
The gauge is very simple to use for a normally sighted person, but if you do a lot of your woodworking by brale, sometimes you need a work around, hard for a normal person to grasp.


What I have described, to me anyway, seems to make the set up even simplier, just the way I see it.

Confession, I have recently found that my magnifying visor does allow me to see the gause much better. But as you know Harry I tend to make simple things more complex, I really don't want to cause anybody heart burn by my thinking and doing what you have pointed out.

Not having to even look at the hash mark any longer is easier for me, seems like it's a step in the right direction to me, but that's just me.

My dear friend Harry, as usual, if I don't do something your way, you criticize it due to your fast knowledge and experience that you are so well known for and admired. You also know that I am an experimenter and not always interested in doing things like everybody else does it.

It's easier for me to see the cursor on Incra's primary scale that to see the hash mark on the gauge, and by only having to see it one time for the height adjustment is easier for me than having to find the center of a workpiece and then try to line hash mark up on that center line. It's just so easy to crank the bit up to the proper height for any given thickness of material, just seems easier to me.

I do really like the miter lock joint and hope that those that are not familiar with it will eventually look into it.

Jerry B.

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 12-26-2014 at 09:06 AM.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 09:28 AM
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Jerry, please take some photos when trying this new method of yours I'm sure that we are all interested in seeing how it works out, personally I think the way that you made the lock mitres for the chest will be found to be easier. I don't have a problem with your experimenting per se but it genuinely worries me that on this occasion new comers could be put off from trying this very good joint. You know that I have your best interests at heart.

Harry



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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bowen View Post
.......The height of the bit must be set in accordance to the the thickness of the material that the cut is to be made in, but the position of the fence, is the same no matter what the thickness of the material is, I think.
Nope, with the material vertically running along the fence, the fence must be place such that the bit is set for the thickness of the material as well.
http://www.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/S...ckMiterBit.gif
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Jerry, please take some photos when trying this new method of yours I'm sure that we are all interested in seeing how it works out, personally I think the way that you made the lock mitres for the chest will be found to be easier. I don't have a problem with your experimenting per se but it genuinely worries me that on this occasion new comers could be put off from trying this very good joint. You know that I have your best interests at heart.


Harry,
While helping Vesta with her back after starting this thread, I realized that I am wrong about the vertical set up, I'll wil get back after some experimenting, but I wish to re-track my statement about the setting the fence for the vertical cut.

Jerry

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 12-26-2014 at 11:00 AM.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 11:08 AM
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The fence has to be set so that the bit cuts to the corner of the board without removing it. Since the angle of the cutter is 45* this will be the same whether the board is vertical or horizontal. The height adjustment is to place the tongue and groove in the middle so that they match and don't stagger the joint.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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The fence has to be set so that the bit cuts to the corner of the board without removing it. Since the angle of the cutter is 45* this will be the same whether the board is vertical or horizontal. The height adjustment is to place the tongue and groove in the middle so that they match and don't stagger the joint.

Yes, I admitted my error, but am now thinking that the incremental changes in the fence setting can be accomplished with the scale on the carriage. Be patient with me until I play with this a bit.

Jerry B.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 09:19 PM
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.......am now thinking that the incremental changes in the fence setting can be accomplished with the scale on the carriage......
If I'm reading you right, Jerry, then in theory if the fence and depth are set for 20mm thickness, then if you have 22mm thickness, the fence would move away from the cutter and up from the table by 1mm.

Is that what you're thinking?
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2014, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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If I'm reading you right, Jerry, then in theory if the fence and depth are set for 20mm thickness, then if you have 22mm thickness, the fence would move away from the cutter and up from the table by 1mm.

Is that what you're thinking?
Angie,

Not being able to think clearly in metric figures I'm not following you for sure.

Let me try this. Let's say that a person has the height of the bit and position of the fence set up to make a correct cut on a workpiece that is 3/8" thick.

If you want to change the setting for cuts in a half in piece of material you know that the half inch piece is 1/8" thicker than the 3/8". With that knowledge you should, in my thinking, raise the bit 1/16" higher and move the fence rearward by the same amount. To move to a 5/8" setting you would move the bit and the fence another 1/16" higher and further rearward. The same thing to go to a set up for 3/4" stock.

Right now I am having so much trouble with material feeding across the bit that I can't do any verification of what I talking about. I'll be back in the shop today working on the problem of the feed. I'm using the set up jig right now to try to get a good set up to start with.

Does my thinking on the set up make sense to you or not?

Jerry
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