Table saw short fence - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table saw short fence

Yesterday I bought a Excalibur fence with the sliding face for my table saw.the sliding face effectively can convert this biesmyer style fence into a short fence.I played with it tonight and am totally behind the short fence concept,and believe it is a great way to effectively reduce the chance of kickback.Short fences are the normal in Europe,if I understand correctly and after a very short time I am sold
Anyone else using a short fence and any tips on proper use and set up?
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 08:33 PM
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Got any pichers?
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 09:14 PM
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Yes, the heavy duty sliding panel saw at the Strathfield Men's shed
has a fence that can be adjusted for length.

I use it all the time for cutting short lengths after they have been ripped to width.

I have the fence set so that the timber does not touch the fence just before the timber hits the blade.

There is also a fence on the sliding section that is 90 to the blade that backs up the timber so a mitre gauge is not required.

Just my 2cents...

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 07:30 AM
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would like to see a picture of this fence
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 08:43 AM
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I saw a youtube about using short fences and have been wondering. I hope some members will share their experiences with them.

It seems I never finish what I
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 09:50 AM
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A tip for anyone who has a Delta Unifence, Peach Tree Woodworking Woodworking tools, supplies, plans, accessories and more - ptreeusa.com
sells a replacement fence extrusion called a "Uni-T-Fence that's square and has T slots on the top and sides. They also sell this in several lengths up to 43" and a short 16" version. All attach to the Unifence base just like the original Unifence extrusion with no modifications required, so they can be slid forward or back to have any length working portion of the fence that you want. The Unifence extrusion was once available in a short 16" version, but these as well as the whole Unifence has sadly been discontinued. I still use my original Unifence extrusion because it has a few features not available in the Uni-T-Fence, like the short fence capability, but I like and use the Uni-T-Fence when feather boards are needed. The short version of the Uni-T-Fence is great to use as a stop when cross cutting many pieces, and it can also be used like the European style fence for ripping. This makes my original Unifence package much more versatile.
The Uni-T-Fence (all sizes) are available here Uni T Fence


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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al m View Post
I played with it tonight and am totally behind the short fence concept, and believe it is a great way to effectively reduce the chance of kickback.Short fences are the normal in Europe, if I understand correctly and after a very short time I am sold
Hi Al

Yes, well, I've been sold on them for about 40 or so years..... I was trained on them and whenever I've had to use a table saw without one I've ended-up making-up an auxilliary fence plate to give me some of the same functionality. And yes, they are the norm in Europe and have been for many years

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Originally Posted by al m View Post
Anyone else using a short fence and any tips on proper use and set up?
For ripping set the far end of the fence so that it only just passes the leading tooth gullets. For sheet materials you can go further, but I tend not to so that I avoid trapping. If your fence has a high-low setting, use the low fence setting when making bevel cuts and narrow cuts, and run the fence a bit further forwards to give extra support - but no further than about 1/2 of the blade width. That way you can keep the riving knife and guard in place when doing these cuts. Use good, long push sticks, about 16in long, with birdsmouths to guide the last 18in or so of the cut. I generally have two on the saw. And of course always make sure that your saw has sufficiant run-off support for long pieces

That's it really. They're simplicity itself to use - and far, far safer that the Biesmeyer-type fence, partly because you don't have to take the guards off for bevel rips

There's a PDF on the UK HSE website here which explains all this, together with diagrams. Maybe a useful read for anyone usimg a table saw

Regards

Phil

"Unfortunately there is lots of bad information online; some of it is really scary. It's probably not intentional, but I've seen some content that sets up the illusion that you can do whatever you want and get away with it" - Norm Abram in an interview with Jefferson Kolle

Last edited by Phil P; 01-14-2015 at 12:41 PM.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
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I use it all the time for cutting short lengths after they have been ripped to width.
Hi James

A crosscut saw with a fixed stop (or a flip-over) would be faster and less effort - especially if you are doing a hundred or more. Just my 2cents...

Regards

Phil

"Unfortunately there is lots of bad information online; some of it is really scary. It's probably not intentional, but I've seen some content that sets up the illusion that you can do whatever you want and get away with it" - Norm Abram in an interview with Jefferson Kolle
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil P View Post
Hi James

A crosscut saw with a fixed stop (or a flip-over) would be faster and less effort - especially if you are doing a hundred or more. Just my 2cents...

Regards

Phil
Good point, Phil. I walked right past the crosscut saw to use the table saw....

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Here it is with the sliding face in the tall poition
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