I played with it tonight and am totally behind the short fence concept, and believe it is a great way to effectively reduce the chance of kickback.Short fences are the normal in Europe, if I understand correctly and after a very short time I am sold
Yes, well, I've been sold on them for about 40 or so years..... I was trained on them and whenever I've had to use a table saw without one I've ended-up making-up an auxilliary fence plate to give me some of the same functionality. And yes, they are the norm in Europe and have been for many years
Anyone else using a short fence and any tips on proper use and set up?
For ripping set the far end of the fence so that it only just passes the leading tooth gullets. For sheet materials you can go further, but I tend not to so that I avoid trapping. If your fence has a high-low setting, use the low fence setting when making bevel cuts and narrow cuts, and run the fence a bit further forwards to give extra support - but no further than about 1/2 of the blade width. That way you can keep the riving knife and guard in place when doing these cuts. Use good, long push sticks, about 16in long, with birdsmouths to guide the last 18in or so of the cut. I generally have two on the saw. And of course always make sure that your saw has sufficiant run-off support for long pieces
That's it really. They're simplicity itself to use - and far, far safer that the Biesmeyer-type fence, partly because you don't have to take the guards off for bevel rips
There's a PDF on the UK HSE website here
which explains all this, together with diagrams. Maybe a useful read for anyone usimg a table saw