Jointer? Or Planer? Which one first? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Jointer? Or Planer? Which one first?

Wow.... I *almost* have the wife convinced that in order for me to actually BUILD stuff, I need to be able to prep the wood. I saw a planer at what looked like a good deal that turned out to be not-so-great. But that got me looking.

So I looked at planers and then I started looking at jointers. Most of the stock I deal with is smaller width. So I started thinking a jointer. Then I thought..... "A jointer would be great for edge joining, but what about a 4 to 6 inch wide board? "

A jointer won't necessarily make opposite sides of a board parallel even though it makes them straight. And a planer will make them parallel, but won't make them straight.

Sounds to me like you need both, but I know that ain't going to happen.
I have a nice hand plane (jointer plane) ....

So which would you get first? A jointer or a planer?

And are the Delta units decent? Are the Dewalt planers so much better than the Deltas as to make the cost difference worthwhile?

Is the Delta jointer (the open stand, 6"... not the bench top model) decent? Or is it worth another $100 to get the Jet in the same size?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:02 PM
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Jointer first... It makes a Flat side / edge.

Planer second... It mirrors the flat side to the other side to make IT flat.
(flat side down away from cutters, of course.)

Have Fun,
Joe

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I know which one to USE first.

If you could only HAVE one..... and the other might have to wait quite a while.... which one would you BUY first?

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reikimaster
I know which one to USE first.

If you could only HAVE one..... and the other might have to wait quite a while.... which one would you BUY first?

OH!! Golly, that makes a big difference doesn't it!

I guess it depends on how you buy your wood... really rough without any planing or jointing... or not.

I get mine planed both sides with one edge jointed...
So, I think I'd get the Planer first...

If I didn't have ANY flat side, it would take a jointer to get started.
edit: Of course, an argument could be made for a Router! /edit

Is that better?

edit:
But I only have a 4" jointer that I inherited... no planer either...
That takes $$$. I have a friend that will plane for me... but, for the most part, I'm getting by w/o one.
/edit

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Last edited by Joe Lyddon; 09-25-2007 at 02:22 PM.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:42 PM
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Hi reikimaster

Just my 2 cents

Get the jointer 1st. most stock you buy will not be true or sq.

Once it's in your shop and out of the stack from the lumber yard/Big Box store,etc. it's not going to stay true very long.
It's always on the move...it was a tree and always will be..
Small boards make big boards, you can always make it flat and true with the jointer but that's not true with the planer...

If you can get a 8" one get it if not get a 6" floor model,most are all about the same select the brand name you like and then stick with it for most of your shop equipiment..



============


Quote:
Originally Posted by reikimaster
I know which one to USE first.

If you could only HAVE one..... and the other might have to wait quite a while.... which one would you BUY first?




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Last edited by bobj3; 09-25-2007 at 02:01 PM.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:58 PM
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Here's the answer Scott Phillips, of The American Workshop, gave when asked...

http://popularwoodworking.com/video/?showid=282541

Here is how Norm Abram answered... (depends on wood)

http://popularwoodworking.com/video/?showid=282533

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Joe

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Last edited by Joe Lyddon; 09-25-2007 at 02:06 PM.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 02:41 PM
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I will need to disagree Scott P.

Most buy stock 6" wide or less and if you buy anything wider it should be ripped down to less, most 6" wider stock will be cupped or will cup real quick once it's out of the stack.

I have not found a blade yet they that will not leave a saw mark in it when it's ripped on the table saw..
Most stock you will use will be less that 6" wide the norm for most projects or to say it should be, like for a panel doors,etc.

You need to start with sq. stock to get it to come out sq.
When I cut plywood I use the sand paper disk on the saw blade to remove the saw marks and it works OK most of the time...


But the jointer will make the stock flat and sq....


Just my 2 cents...


============






Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Lyddon
Here's the answer Scott Phillips, of The American Workshop, gave when asked...

http://popularwoodworking.com/video/?showid=282541

Here is how Norm Abram answered... (depends on wood)

http://popularwoodworking.com/video/?showid=282533



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
I will need to disagree Scott P.

Most buy stock 6" wide or less and if you buy anything wider it should be ripped down to less, most 6" wider stock will be cupped or will cup real quick once it's out of the stack.

I have not found a blade yet they that will not leave a saw mark in it when it's ripped on the table saw..

... ... ... ...

============
I'm sure Scott P. (incidently, Sam Maloof feels the same way) was referring to a super premium blade like the Forest WW II...

A premium blade, of that caliber, will give you a Glass-smooth cut... that does NOT need to be jointed or sanded in any way.

I have seen it with my own eyes... and have felt it with my own fingers... it is awesome!
SD Maker likes this.

Have Fun,
Joe

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 06:59 PM
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Gee maybe someone should tell Norm A. that,,,( of the NYWS)

I see him use the jointer all the time after he rips wood on the table saw..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
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=============




"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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Last edited by bobj3; 09-25-2007 at 07:05 PM.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Gee maybe someone should tell Norm A. that,,,( of the NYWS)

I see him use the jointer all the time after he rips wood on the table saw..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator


=============
I heard Norm A. say that he felt Sam Maloof was his pick for the best woodworker of today... (in the Interview link posted earlier)

Maybe Norm A. should learn a few tricks from Sam Maloof?
Once Sam has one straight edge, it's the TS all the way... no jointing.
I've heard him say it with my own ears.

The first straight edge can be made various ways...
... with a router, strt edge, & fkush trim bit.
... with a TS using a straight carrier to clamp the workpiece to it, & cut.

Have Fun,
Joe

Alta Loma, CA

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